Day 20

Day 20 - only words. 

Day 20 Walking, June 7

Cordilleras House, Richmond to Cambridge House, Reeth. 

10 miles, 5 hours. 

"Once you have traveled, the voyage never ends, but is played out over and over again in the quietest chambers.  The mind can never break off the journey."  Pat Conway

SLOW internet.  Could not upload yesterday's blog back in Richmond, or here in Reeth, yet.  And tomorrow in Keld have Serious doubts of Any internet ability.  Two weeks ago in Keld it didn't work at all.  Will keep writing and some day the blogs will post.  Aw, the joys of rural country life 😬

Chatted at breakfast with a solo man in the C2C from Texas who was only going to Danby Wiske (half the distance I had been "assigned" to cross yesterday). There was also a couple from Ireland who were doing day hikes and dreaming of one day attempting the Coast to Coast.  Small room.  Everyone at their individual tables.  Everyone begins talking to everyone. 

Planned to stop at Elaine's Country Kitchen for mid walk/mid day food.  Elaine's was CLOSED.  Possibly permanently. Had tea and shortbread here on that previous round trip crossing of England.  

Stopped in Marske.   Sat on the bench and ate one of the Bounty candy bars stored in my food/cookie/snack section of the backpack.  

When the trekker is walking alone, it is necessary to take a selfie.  

Began to meet C2C walkers heading east.  9 today.  One was a mom and daughter team from Boston who have relatives in southern Wisconsin. 

Very muddy in the Whitecliffe woods.  Necessary to step carefully and not slip into the goo. 

Came to The white cairn marking where the trail turned off and headed down through pastures.  Decided rather than descend the steep route would continue around the edge of the mountain and get on the paved road.  Easier walking, but add on 1/2 mile. 

Numerous very narrow gaps in the stone walls to get the human body through, and keep the sheep from escaping.  

Missed the Paddy Bridge with my altered route.  Fine, but that was where the Fox had been seen 4 years ago. Guess it was unlikely that another fox would run across the path at the exact moment Lois crossed this year. 

Down through the wooded section of the 375 Nun's Steps.  Far easier going down on the lungs and heart, but the knee had its own opinions. 

The Very last candy from Stevens Point.  

Very mossy stone walls in the woods by the nun's steps. 

Arrived in Reeth and headed straight to the Post Office of snacks.  The man behind the counter laughed when I stacked my choices and said "long day without food?"  YES!

Sat in village center and observed life.  Weather was far different than 2 weeks ago when it had been so hot and sunglasses needed to be purchased.  Today - windy and chilly.  And, very few hikers hanging about. 

Rather lonely this return trip.  

2nd part

About 3:30 climbed up to Cambridge House where Richard and Sheila welcomed me back - their long ago guest.  

Decided to take up the offer of tea and cakes in their conservatory.  Nice to sit (still sweaty and no shower) and visit with other guests.  2 men from Ontario on the C2C heading east.  A local couple who come here every year for their holiday, and do day hikes.  And two bikers. 

Down from the heights, and the nun's steps, the ruins of Marrick Priory were past.  Too bad Visitors are not allowed.  

When climbing up and out of Richmond past West End B&B where I stayed in 2013.  Knocked on the door as I wanted to see Sue, the hostess who had given me one of her paintings of bluebells, but there was no answer. 

Keep noticing the people here look so much alike.  Possibly because in this area (North Yorkshire) the families have lived here for generations/centuries.  Not many outsiders have arrived to alter the gene pool. So not many variations on the theme.  

Entry to Cambridge House. 

Old style heat bottle for beds.  

Where in America it is hard to find a location where the population all resembles each other (possibly Calhoun County in Illinois????).  America is the great mixing pot of countries, cultures, ethnicities, and all churned up. 

"Travel far enough and you meet yourself."  David Mitchell

Day 19

Words only.  Apparently I have too many photos.  Guess I knew that.  So, my words have no visuals to go along.  Sorry. I am leaving the words in because when I get home I plan to "fill in the blanks" for my personal blog book.  

Day 19 of the walk, but didn't walk.  June 6

24.2 miles officially, but this walker chose to Not Walk.  Best save the knees for shorter stretches. 

Park House, Ingleby Cross to Cordilleras House, Richmond by TAXI

The taxi took almost a full hour to make the journey by roadways looping about the countryside for 25 miles.  There was heavy rain. Thankful to be inside chatting with another man who looked like almost every other man seen. 

"One's destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things."  Henry Miller

Leisurely morning lounging about Park House as supposedly Beverly was going to give me a lift down to the bus stop about 1.5 miles away. From there the plan had been to take the bus to Northallerton and from there another bus to Richmond.  

Homemade granola with fresh berries. Beverly is a good cook. 

Slowly chewed on breakfast while chatting through the doorway to the kitchen where Beverly was doing some serious cooking.  Pre-paring meals for a number of days for a number of guests.  She always does 2 starters (appetizers), 2 mains (entree) one vegetarian, and 2 desserts.  The undertaking was quite impressive.  There was another woman who arrived and was cleaning all the bedrooms.  

Dresser, what in America might be called a sideboard, holds the cereal, jams, fresh berries and Greek yogurt, and other things.  I explained that to us a 'dresser' is something in a bedroom where clothes might be stored.  Here that kind of object would be called a - vanity.  

This is The Bench where wifi was Only available. 

Looking toward The Bench with part of dining area visible. 

After an hour or so of cooking Beverly took a break and went online to research the bus times and learned they were few and far between...as in I probably should have walked down and caught that 8:05 am bus.  The only other option was the old reliable Taxi (always privately owned) for a stiff fee, but what were the other options.  Start trudging the 24 miles and it was already 10:45 am?  No way would the knees have been happy. Taxi it would be. 

While hanging about in the B&B picked up the book about the shepherdess Amanda Owens "Ravenseat Yorkshire Shepherdess " who married a sheep farmer 21 years older than her.  They manage 2,000 sheep on 1,000 acres high on the moors.  At the time of the book she had 8 children and now the number is 10.   She works right alongside her husband tending the sheep, cows, horses and chickens, along with the kids.  She said the best prenatal exercise was sheering sheep.  And she serves teas and cakes to walkers.  I missed getting to Ravenseat on my way east but hope it will work out to cling up to the farm and see her again (I did in 2013)

Reception desk made out of mismatched doors. 

Later chatting with Beverly while waiting for the taxi I mentioned the book I was engrossed in and she said "that is nothing - my father was the youngest of 19.  All children survived.  All were single births.  Only 2 were girls.  All looked exactly alike".  

Beverly's dogs are Tibetan Terriers.  Not really related to other terriers,  but when the Europeans first saw the dogs in Tibet they called them that. Actually the real name is Tsang Apso.  The dogs do Not shed their hair. Have Very large feet with lots of hair between their toes - the better for mountain climbing or shoe shoeing across the Himalayan peaks. 

Talking with Beverly I told her about my stay at Ingleby House Farm and the wedding procession seen up the little farm lane next to my shepherd hut where the tractor was involved. She said there was another wedding that day on the other side of the mountain near Northhallerton at Thimblebe Estates.  The owners of the Great Hall are the owners of one of the large grocery stores in England - Morrisons.  

That wedding was for their granddaughter and Beverly said it was Over-The-Top.  A wedding better suited for Royalty.  Everything amazing.   Ended with fireworks.

I asked if she had visited Thimbleby Hall.  No, but she had seen it from a distance.  But she had gone to something at the Carriage House and that "house" was IMMENSE.  Couldn't imagine what the Big house would be like.  I looked up photos but couldn't copy them, the place looks sort of like the setting for Downton Abbey. 

All that remains of Gray Friars Tower above ground.  Below there are still foundations. The Franciscan Friary was founded in 1258.  The original church was built of wood timbers, and later rebuilt with stone.  The Friary Was dissolved in January 1539 - Henry VIII again. 14 brethren were sent off on their merry way, or rather their very sad way.  

My driver arrived, trekking poles and backpack stuffed in the boot (trunk).  Climb in front seat.  Spend one hour chatting with this man who delivered me right to the market square. He didn't really know Richmond, but I did.  Told him where to drop me off and I would find my way.  Good Bye taxi driver. Good Bye 40 pounds.  

Driver had a cough. He took these. Offered me one. Burned this person's throat, and didn't stop the driver's cough.  Wasn't sure if they should be called fisherman's friend, taxi driver's friend, or useless friend. 

Asked taxi driver if he had always driven. No, just for the last 15 years and just part time.  What did he do before?  I couldn't quite understand with his North Yorkshire accent but he was either involved in mortgages or in mortuaries.  Didn't want to ask for clarification.  

Arrived in Richmond where it was cold, blowing, and rainy.  Walked about trying to look at the city as when I was here a while back could hardly walk because if the knee pain. 

All the young men wear black skinny jeans.  Have not seen any blue jeans, and certainly not any loose, baggy, or hanging below their butts, jeans.  

Richmond Castle seen from the Castle Walk path. 

River Swale below the castle. 

So thankful I was able to bypass today's walk across those flat rolling farmlands that basically look like central Wisconsin. 

Did miss seeing the monument to Henry Jenkins a man who supposedly lived to 168 years in Bolton-on-Swale.  But I saw it on the previous visit. 

Have hope for getting back down to the business of walking the C2C tomorrow.  With the knee braces on I can walk, with limited issues. Without can hardly get the body to move about the room.  Will stick to the braces. 

Veggie pasty from local bakery. 

In Richmond the first priority was to try to return the little box with the roll up blue tape I had bought with the idea of "taping" up my leg about a week and a half ago.  Never opened it.  Took care to not damage the box.  But had not saved the receipt.  

Went back to the same Boots chemist shop,  and the same lady was working who had helped me before.  Explained what I wanted to do.  She was understanding.  Exchanged the bandage for a large box of ibuprofen and a small toothpaste.  Good deal!

Tonight's B&B is located on Hurgill Road and about 2 blocks from the central market square. Hurgill Road was the main road between the lead mines in Swaledale and Richmond, which was used to transport the lead goods further south. 

Hurgill is an ancient Norse name meaning "rugged ravine". 

Cordilleras House, where currently the legs are reclining on a huge lovely white bed, was built in 1801.  At that time it was considered very much a 'gentry' house in the country, but near enough (2 blocks) to Richmond to benefit from the facilities of a Fashionable town. 

Cover of a book in my room which was partly about this house and partly about the history of Richmond. 

In 2012 the property was purchased by the present owners Gez and Liz for 370,000 pounds (read all that in the book about the house in my room).  

"Richmond was very fashionable and rivaled York in the early tourist trade.  Here was the most important race course in the north.  It had a theatre, assembly rooms, and walks with promenades.  By 1820 in Richmond there were gas street lights, one of the first in Europe."

My bed, shower, and shower complete with Shower (it was lovely!)

Center of Richmond market square 

Modern bathroom fixtures.  The top rectangle is for "light" colors.  The bottom rectaniis for "dark" colors.  

Taste of Thailand.  Had planned on getting take-away, 10% less, but as it was blowing and raining, decided to not take it away.  The server seemed surprised that I wanted no rice or noodles or meat (now called Protein in fancy places in the U.S.).  I just wanted Veggies and no deep fried Anythings.  And I wanted it hot and spicy.  🌶. She told the cook but it was very very mild.  This business of catering to bland British tastes!!!

Reflecting on that getting lost business the day before reminds me again why I don't like walking under trees - Can Not See Where I Am, or Where I Have Been.  A person can keep going in a circle until breaking away, and then spin off in the incorrect direction.

(Backup) Navigational Errors, Harsh Rain, Rescue by Hikers

Day 18 Walking, June 5

West Cote/Clay Bank Top to Park House/Ingleby Arncliff 

10.4 Official miles.  I walked all of it, then TROUBLES!

6 hours for original route plus an extra hour LOST!

"Character consists of what you do on the third and fourth tries."  James Michener 

Built Lois some "character" today.  😬

Breakfast requests for today at West Cote. Porridge, one slice brown toast, 4 samples of Judy's cheese lecture.  

Top right is sort of a blue.  Very creamy.  

Top left is (I think, trouble with accents, especially why they talk fast) Bowland troughfill bowl.  People either love or hate it.  I was neutral. It was sweet and had apples, raisins, cinnamon and nutmeg in it. 

Bottom left is a Lincolnshire poarcher vintage.    Story:  about 200+ years ago when the Enclosures Act was started the land was cut up into small fields and the stone walls were built.  Large Estates had game keepers who were constantly on the lookout for local lowlife (peasants and paupers) who would sneak on the property to Poach what ever game they could snag.  Because of doing this at night they would carry a chunk of cheese in their pockets for a midnight snack.  This is the cheese they carried.  Very Hard. Very Sharp.  My Favorite!

Bottom right.  Jgestot (Toast in Norwegian) is a Christmas cheese made with sheeps milk and cows cream.  Kind of sweet, sort of like eating fudge.  

 

 

Sad, yet fond farewells from Judy and Stuart. Laughed about me coming back again in 4 years.  Can't say for sure, but I doubt that will happen. They were very sweet and we all chatted away like old friends.  

 

I had been directed to take the Miners Path, which is also the Bridle Way around the north side of the first three mountains to save my knee.  It was a lovely stretch through the woods and far easier that the alternative of steep up and downs. 

 

 

 

Rained most of day.  Not quite hail but the rain drops were fierce.  

Had a snack after rounded the 2nd mountain of the leftover slice of my favorite cheese - Lincolnshire Poachers.  Yum!  

 

 

 

Painting of the cow with the stripe in the middle like a pig.  The herd was way off in the distance so no photos of living cows, so had to settle for this painting. 

 

 

Arrived at Lord Stones Cafe in perfect timing.  Just missed the end of the breakfast menu and an hour too early for the lunch menu.  My luck. Settled on Yorkshire tea and a slice of Victoria sponge cake.  Sat indoors in my dripping wet rain pants, took the rain jacket off, but then became chilled.  Other soaking wet C2C hikers, and normal people who drove up in cars and were neatly groomed. 

 

As I was departing a large group arrived and had to leave their backpacks and trekking poles outside.  One man passed me wearing an REI jacket. Immediately asked him where he was from - Montana.   Too bad they were all going the other direction from Lois. 

 

These two guys and I leap frogged all day.  This was the last I saw of them and wish I could have kept up because shortly after this I went astray.  It wasn't good. 

 

 

Knew exactly where I was up to a point and then became confused.  REALLY confused.  Kept climbing up hill, turning around and walking back down.  Look at map.  Then decided that was the right way and climbed back up again.  No, it was wrong. Kept doing it over and over.  Twice went all the way back down to where I knew exactly where I was, and started over on a different path. 

Very frustrating!  At first I was okay as the rain had stopped and the sun almost came out. Then realized I was just as twisted about as before. 

Over and over. I was on the wrong side of the last ridge, with woods in between, about a mile from where I needed to be if the map was correct and I was correct for where I thought I was standing, but couldn't find the path over.  

Finally came to a paved road (no signs) so I turned in the Northly direction because I knew Park House was on the side of the west side of the street hill with the road going down towards north. 

Ended up having to climb over a gate that was locked shut.  Walked downhill for 10 minutes still nothing looked like I remembered, but it was 4 years ago, and I had bypassed this section when Malcolm gave me that ride from Ingleby House Farm.  

The main problem, along with miss reading the map, was this last hill, about as tall as Rib Mountain, was covered with trees and not the wide open spaces of the high peaks which have lots of moor land where everything can be seen for miles and miles. 

Came to a place where 3 roads converged with road signs.  Didn't recognize any of the names.  Realized that the closest town 1 mile away was WAY wrong from where this walker was supposed to be arriving at.  Panicked.  Almost cried.  Turned on phone and called Park House 3 times.  No answer.  Now tears began. 

 Car passed me going up the way I had just come down.  Next car came around the corner and I stood right in the middle of road until it stopped.  She looked at my map.  Couldn't figure it out. Offered to give me a lift to where she was going (opposite direction from where I should be going).  Got in and road. 

Arrived at a parking lot by a reservoir.   She suggested I walk down to Osmotherley about two miles and then hike back up two miles. Climbed out of their car. Thanked them.  

As I got out saw a couple of hikers getting into a car near by with backpacks.  Immediately went over and began to question them about what they were doing, where they had hiked, and most important, where were they going.  Showed them my map and explained how lost I had become.  The rain began to fall again. The wife said I should get in their car.  I did.  

Where we were sitting it was only .9 mile to Park House my destination, but by road about 5 miles. 

Much discussion about where they could take this hiker to get her straightened out. 

Finally they studied their phones and realized it would only take about 15 minutes to drive me around the mountain.  They did!  They delivered me right to the front door of Park House, which was up quite a rustic road.  Felt like crying again.  Gave them some money for their efforts and said if they ever show up in central Wisconsin I would help them out.  Gave the husband a hug and went inside.  

 

Beverly the hostess was not here but her mother was.  Chatted with her for quite a while before being shown my room with the lovely hot shower.  I was chilled. 

 

 

 

 

 

As I am the only guest here tonight, and because I am "the walking wounded" my meal was brought to me while I sat on the couch.  

Dinner was squash soup and veggies.  I requested not to have the full "main" meal.  Too much foods. 

 

Beverly came and chatted for a bit about her guests so far this season.  The talk drifted back to the woman who had died on the day between Grasmere and Patterdale.  Funny because she had a group of Australians stay here who said they had performed CPR on her for a hour.  Not true.  But then unless there are other witnesses anyone can claim their version is true.  Fact?????

Beverly delivering the dessert.  It was called an "Eton Mess"

 

The Mess. 

 

Consuming the Mess

 

(Backup) Barn Transformation, Taxi, and Mountain/Moor Rain

Day 17 Walking, June 4

Red House Farm, Glaisdale to West Cote/Clay Bank Top

18.6 miles but Lois cut it in half

9 miles in 4.5 hours.  Perfect amount of time for the knee. 

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by what things you didn't do, than by the ones you did."  Mark Twain

Last night after hauling the creaky knees down the extremely steep road to the Arncliff Arms around 7 pm, which is owned by a man named Neil Cook, whose father I met waiting for a bus in Whitby, was told I would have to until 8:30 when a reservation had been made for those of us from Red House Farm.  I looked in the dining room and only one man was seated.  Asked if it would be possible for me to get some small and light early as I hadn't eaten since 11:30 and was Hungry.  NO, I would have to wait as the kitchen couldn't handle the food.  I sat and stared at the help, 4 young girls behind the bar doing basically nothing.  Actually by 8 pm it was more of a glare.  At 8:15 suddenly I could order food.  Now there were about 5 tables of people who had arrived.  I had the tomato soup and left quickly, well as quickly as the knee would let this person hobble out and Up the hill.  Learned this morning that there is a problem with the cook who decides on her own when she is going to start cooking.  Silly arrangement with management to let a lowly cook direct operations 

Here is the man who was being served, while the rest of the room was empty.  And the room extended around to the right with another 5-6 tables. 

 

Early morning coffee setup/later afternoon tea in the room. 

 

Tom and Sandra have been working on their swimming pool since I was here in 2013.  Last night they had their first swim in it.  And, Lois was the First guest they showed it to.

Amazing what an old barn can be turned into!

 

Taxi to Lion Inn on top of Blakey Ridge. As the taxi approached the Lion Inn there were 7 groups of hikers just setting off for the day.  The outline of their shapes could be seen from a mile away. 

Looking back up at the Lion Inn as the disused train line path was begun. 

 

Had a cup of coffee before setting off the days walk. My cup had a square bottom and the saucer matched. 

 

"A Rare and Valuable Habitat.  Britain is thought to have almost 75%of the world's remaining moors. North York Moors has the largest continuous area in England.  

 

 

"Despite appearance, the moorland is not truly a natural landscape.  For centuries, sheep farmers and game management have helped maintain this special environment."

The rain is approaching.  Quick put on the waterproofs. 

 

First set of people met on the trail today were a mother and daughter team from Minneapolis.  Elizabeth and Rebecca.  They had been told by Judy and Stuart to watch for me.   Chatted for 10 minutes about our walks, and agreed why we can not walk like this at home.  Farmers would not allow it. 

 

Missed stopping at Fat Betty and Old and Young Ralph.  They are all medieval crosses.  Probably used as Way cross or marker stones for hundreds of years.  They were a great help to pilgrims. 

The Old Ralph cross, or was it, the Young Ralph cross, that legend says was set up to mark the resting place of a monk from Farmdale and a nun from Rosedale. They would often meet at that location for a romantic liaison of sorts, but were discovered by their superiors and came to a nasty end. 

Heard about 2 Australians who are taking 24 days to cross the country.  Sort of like the "slow boat to China", but possibly their knees have not given out. 

 

Thankful for Ibuprofen!!

 

The smallest cookie came with the coffee 

from the Lion Inn.  Saved it for an emergency.

The only other foods being carried today were: 1 clementine, 1 apple, 1 snicker bar (lunch).

 

 

 

Resting in the wet moor. 

 

 

"Wainwright laid the foundations for the best (it is the BEST) long distance walk across Britain, but even he did not prescribe the route    He suggested a particular way of walking from one coast to the other coast.  But urged people to find their own variation."

Lois is making up her own journey across England, making the best of a Not the Best Knee, but still on the journey, and can still smile. 

 

At breakfast this morning was a young couple from Provo, Utah.  They currently are living in France for a year for the husbands work.  He is a nuclear chemist. 

 

 

 

 

The Utah couple at breakfast have been walking a lot with another couple from London who live near where the recent attacks took place.  The wife works in that area and they often go out to eat in the artsy neighborhood. 

 

At breakfast there was also a lot of talk about blisters which they all seemed to be struggling with and all the various approaches to dealing with them.  At some point they walked with a physician who offered her method, and she knew from experience as her feet were tormenting her.  Poke the bubbles open, drain, cover with Compeed. 

 

 

Last night was able to watch the final episode of Call The Midwife on my phone.  Now just two more finales of other shows to catch up on when the wifi is working good, and the evenings are long. 

 

 

Bird?   Other creature?

 

Judy's painting studio. 

 

 

Outside of West Cote 

 

The Buck Inn where dinner was eaten, for the 4th time.  There will not be a fifth, even though it was tasty. 

Dinner:  blacken salmon.  But eating alone is not fun.