East West

Day 34, June 22

Manchester, United Kingdom to Stevens Point, Wisconsin, USA

East West Home is Best, is carved into the fireplace mantle at My Home.  True!  But seeing a bit of a small portion of the world beyond, is also good.  

"Real voyage of discovery consisted not in seeing new landscapes, but in having new eyes."  Marcel Proust

Will write this final blog entry for "Walking Wainwright's Coast to Coast - Round Trip - 2017 using the two thumbs rather than the keyboard. Seems fitting to complete the full journey this way.  Also a bit jet-lagged and was wide awake before 5 a.m. Have been busy accomplishing tasks about the Home. Might as well be useful. 

Easy walk from the Gardens Hotel to Manchester Piccadilly Train station, three blocks. Stopped at a Greggs and got an almond croissant 🥐.  Ate that with orange juice while waiting for the train. Security didn't seem to be any more visible than usual at the station, but am sure there were "undercover " people in disguise.  Plus the CCTV were EVERYWHERE.  

15 minute walk between train and air terminal.  The business of taking off backpack, hiking boots and SmartWool socks, putting on sandals and stuffing backpack into plane bag, with hike poles collapsed and cushioned with one hiking boot on top and another at the bottom was a 5 minute process done in the middle of the terminal.  

No real issues checking in, and line wasn't long when I joined it.  The additional "security" check, even before approaching the monitors to print boarding passes, were a few young, pretty, bubbly women with ponytails who asked each passenger a few "questions".  

When it was my turn I was asked by the smiling lady who looked directly into my eyes, to tell her something about my daily life.  What I like doing.  Hobbies.  Why was I in England.  

I asked her, smiling, was she really interested or was she interrogating me?  She smiled and said "security".  I answered politely, and was able to proceed.  

Going through the line with me was a group of about 7-8 young men who were on their way to Las Vegas for a bachelor stag party.  Apparently this is a tradition and part of the process was the groom had to dress as a girl for the trip.  Didn't learn those details until Chicago when I was the last one off the plane and walked with one of the pilots to Immigration.  He was laughing about the group and has seen it before.  The pilot was originally from Kenosha, Wisconsin    

The guy who was the groom made a very cute girl.  I took photos as did many others.  All the flight crew had their pictures taken with him, included the crew in the cockpit.  He wore his wig with two big ponytails all through the flight and right up to entering the crazy room for Immigration.  

While waiting in Manchester struck up a conversation with a lady sitting next to me.  Laurie was from Ireland and was traveling to Milwaukee to visit a sister.  And, she has a brother who used to live in Green Bay but just recently moved to Stevens Point.  Small world.  

She told me there is a "joke" in England that goes something like this - English people invaded so many countries and now they wonder why they all followed them home to Britain.

My seat on the plane was in the very last row, center seat - practically the worst kind of seat Wedged between others.  

Lady with the aisle seat was British and was on her way to - Milwaukee to visit a relative.  Told her about the other lady also going there who was taking the bus.  

Young man with the window seat was from Moscow and was going to Chicago for the Blue Grass music.  He is a musician, harmonica and banjo.  His passport and Visa books were almost completely filled with all his travels. 

That was a very LONG 8 + hour flight.  One thing to make the trip overnight when a real nap can be taken, but Wide Awake in the middle of the day is a long time to SIT, wedged.   There were 3 full length movies that played, but none were interesting plus it was a very lively group of passengers.  Between the bachelor stag party group standing up and playing the Uno card gave over their seats, and shouting UNO, other people kept wandering and standing up. The plane was not very large, one center aisle with 3 seats each side, so no real room to wander about and everyone kept bumping into each other. Noisy.  

At one point I was standing up and stretching and when looking out the window realized there were icebergs floating below.  Soon land came into view.  Fantastic landscape of mountains, ice and snow.  Asked the flight attendant if it was Iceland or Greenland.  She didn't know and had never seen it before.  She said "I will ask the guys". Phoned the pilots and learned we were passing directly over Iceland.  Took about 25 photos. It was amazing. Could clearly see glaciers.  

On arrival in Chicago the process was crazy going through Immigration because of the masses of people.  Actually the lines flowed fairly fast, but I was on a tense and tight timeline for my connecting flight.  

Approaching the area, finally, where there were probably 50 computer monitors or more, had to scan passport, and answer questions about entering the US.  Sorry, but final question was answered untruthfully.  The question was " have you been in any areas of livestock?"  Lois suddenly had amnesia about any sheep or cow pastures she might have traversed for 4 weeks.  Answer - NO.  Quickly grabbed official document to take to the Immigration officers. Another maze of line standing.  

Ran to catch tram to main terminal.  Ran to go through security again.  Dash to read finally monitor to locate gate.  Dash to gate.  Arrive.  The flight was delayed.  Breathe.   Turned out the flight was delayed over and over again for the next 2.5 hours.  Plenty of time to make use of an American restroom, not a Toilet anymore    

The reason the flight was delayed turned out to be that the crew and been in Flint, Michigan when the attack happened in the airport, and all flights then was halted.  

Exhaustion set in.  But, messaging was once again available so much use of that was made to keep in touch with the homefront.  

HOME!!!!  Greeted by the faithful Lily the Pug and Mr Mikhail the Maine Coon.  

Hindsight.  Even a few days distance from the actual trek makes it seem very exotic.  All the troubles with bad weather, heat, wind, rain, coldness, the death, not very interesting foods, are almost forgotten.  All the goodness and beauty of the landscape, the high peaks and views that stretched off for what seemed like forever, the lovely weather, great people encountered everywhere, and the overall sense of accomplishment are all basically what I had hoped for, and they will never be forgotten. 

England and the Coast to Coast 2017 was good. 

Now to deal with the knee. 

"The life you have lead doesn't need to be the only life you have."  Anna Quindlen

City Life and Computer Science

Day 33, June 20

Gardens Hotel, Manchester 

"We wander for distraction, but we travel for fulfillment." Hilaire Belloc

First thing in the morning set off to find the sculpture in the Sackville Park honoring Alan  Turing, again. 

"Sometimes, it's the very people who no one imagines anything of who do the things no one can imagine."  Christopher Morcom 

Christopher wrote about Alan Turing the "computer scientist, mathematician, logician, cryptanalyst and theoretical biologist who is known as the father of theoretical computer sciences and artificial intelligence".  

During WWII Turing worked at Bletchley Park and was known for cracking the Enigma Code.  

The story of Alan Turing and his involvement with the Enigma Code was made into a film - The Imitation Game.  

Spent the rest of the day wandering Manchester city center.  Such a shocking change from the rural areas to the north, and the small communities and friendly people everywhere on the Coast to Coast route. 

Here there is a sharp contrast between the business workers, shoppers, tourists (Japanese), and school kids in their uniforms to the Street People who hang out performing some sort of thing (song or dance) with a cup sitting below them on the sidewalk, or the truly desperate and extremely down on their luck who spend the day sitting on the sidewalk (if fortunate - on a bit of cardboard or filthy cloth).  Urban life.  

And there is an Urban Outfitters store. 

Some other chains seen in the U.S.:  Starbucks, Burger King, McDonald's, Subway, Pizza Hut, Taco Bell, Pret a Manger, Krispy Kreme, Five Guys, Aldi's. 

Had my traditional apricot and cream pastry from Marks and Spencer's for breakfast.  Later had a Vietnamese chicken roll-up from the World Food Market (street food). The roll-up was okay, but I would have preferred it to be far more spicy.  

Realized in the "ladies" the dispenser said Kimberly-Clark. 

Went on a quest to find an art supply store.  Found Fred Aldous but they didn't have what this person was seeking. 

On entering Selfridges the "greeter" was dressed in Top Hat and Tails.  Ask to take his photo and he obliged.  Then he suggested having me in the photo with him.   Another security guard came and snapped the picture.  One of us was more dressed up than the other. I claim ownership of being - the other. 

When I came back to my room midday found a note from management on the table saying they had to come into my room because the water from the shower drain was leaking through into the room below.  Oops. Not sure what I did wrong.   Odd shower drain in the first place.  

Didn't wear any knee braces and tried to not take any ibuprofen, but half way through the day took 2.  Leg was just tired and achy.  

Last night for dreams on a bed on a very large island.  

And the Peaks are left Behind

Day 32, June 19

Ellery Hotel, Windermere to Gardens Hotel, Manchester 

"Two roads diverged in a wood and I - I took the less traveled."  Robert Frost

The Ellery Hotel, another odd place to stay, and this time Lois was responsible for the choice.  No one else to blame.  No wifi, supposedly because of the 2-3 foot thick walls, but even in the exact room with the router - Nothing.  Only one other couple was staying here.  No wonder when I arrived yesterday my name was not even asked, it was assumed I was Me, and was immediately lead up to the assigned space. 

The bedroom was large, neat, and clean, with an equally large ensuite.  Two packages of biscuits (cookies) plus a bottle of Still and one of Sparkling water were waiting. The problem was the mattress.  More like a hammock which made tummy sleeping impossible.  

Decided to not wear either of the elastic knee braces, or take any pain pills.  Wanted to see how the knee would perform.  Not too bad.  Possibly a bit better?  Why did it have to happen in the first place?

Spent the morning wandering in and out of each of the few shops in Windermere as the train departure was 12:47. There were many more stores down the hill in Bowness-on-Winderemere, but there was no intention on my part to trudge down there, and back up, and get even more hot and sweaty.  Those hiking days are done, for now. 

Saw a poster advertising an exhibition at the local library.  Asked and found library. Found the show.  

It was titled "From Auschwitz to Ambleside/Windermere".  Photos, documents, video interviews.  It was about 300 Jewish orphans who at the end of WWII, were resettled in this area.  The U.K. had agreed to accept 1000 children into their country, but in the end only 729 could be found.   Most were boys.  The children eventually moved out into other English towns, or immigrated to Palestine or America.  Many though stayed in the Lake District.  

Bought the book with the entire story in it as I was so taken with the entire event.  Will add it to my shelves of Holocaust material. 

Next to the room with the display of The Boys of Windermere, was a sculpture art exhibit.  Learned later from the librarian that the art was created by the wife of one of the Windermere boy survivors. She had never shown her sculptures before, and really had to be talked into displaying the pieces now.  None were for sale.  

Train from Windermere to Oxenholme and from there to Manchester Piccadilly. 

Had to run to catch 2nd train and there was a bit of a complication because I had not gotten an actual printed ticket, only had my confirmation.  The conductor made a bit of a fuss and told me to get a printed ticket when changing trains.  Planned to, but when everyone unboarded the first train and began running down the ramp to catch the waiting train headed to Manchester (lots of Japanese with large luggages), I too realized hurry was the name of the game.  By the time I came up next to the waiting train there were few people left on the platform.  Climbed on.  Basically the last to board.  No ticket printed.  Decided it would have to be dealt with when I was questioned, with a smile and an American accent (or Canadian).

Worked my way through the very crowded train cars until reaching mine. Packed train but I did have an assigned seat.  Lots of fussing over my backpack and where to store it, and even more fussing with the stuff for the man in the seat next to mine.  Both of our packs were left sitting in the entryway on the floor by one of the doors.  

The person seated next to me was an obvious hiker, who was more smelly than me. 

Gradually as the confusion in the train car settled down we began to talk. Learned he and his friend were going to Manchester airport where they were flying off to France for 9 days to train in the Alps on the glaciers for their upcoming trip in September to the Himalayas where they plan to stay until December.  His backpack weighs about 55 pounds.  Ouch!  They have all their camping gear with them as they plan to sleep up high on ice and snow. 

Worried a bit, but not a lot, about the printed out ticket issue.  Knew in Manchester at Piccadilly Station that to depart from the train area you have to show your ticket.  Got my confirmation sheet out.  Approached the two guards and said "there was some confusion and I needed to have a printed ticket".   They waved me through, rather, they thought they were directing me, back, into the terminal, and showed me where to go get my ticket.  Smiled, thanked them, and walked completely out into downtown Manchester.  Ticket issue - no issue. 

Still I LOVE riding by train!!!

Easily found the Gardens Hotel.  When looking at my confirmation sheet today realized how inexpensive it was.  Mentally prepared for a real low life place.  Not bad.  Great location.  Room is fine.  Close to train station to make departure on Wednesday easier.  

Hot here.  Had to take a quick rinse off shower after the 2 hour train event.  On arrival here in 2015 after the Offa's Dyke and Glyndwr Way walk it was freezing cold here and had to wear all my layers, scarf, and gloves. 

Kind of nice to return to a city that is somewhat familiar.  

Walked about looking at places.  Went to see the site of the bombing after the Ariana Grande concert.  Not much to see as it was boarded up and Manchester Victoria train station was operating as usual. 

Lots of I LOVE ❤️ Manchester signs!

All over city central life was going on in typical fashion.  Fashion, well, quite different from what the people seen walking on the C2C were wearing.   Also gone are the beautiful well behaved pedigree dogs.  Here the only dogs look pathetic sitting next to an even more pathetic human with a cup out in front of them.  Back to city life.  

Now, back in urban everything is moving at a different pace.  Had to bring back the city mentality of being surrounded by so many Humans, and use common "street sense" without letting the mind become worried, just be aware.  Exciting as there are so many different nationalities everywhere.  

Did find myself walking closer to the edge of buildings rather than near the edge of the road where a car could potentially drive up and do damage.  Too bad this has had to happen, and there have been tragedies, but life does go on, and it is good to try to be positive.  

Found food again at the Arndale Market which is attached to the upscale mall.  First discovered this area 4 years ago.  Like a "food court" in a mall, only small, very condensed, and side by side food vendors selling what they call "street foods". Had falafel in pits with Everything.  Yum!! Best food in weeks and CHEAP.  Will try one of the other places tomorrow.  

Tomorrow is the Official day of being a transitional tourist before finally getting on the plane, supposedly British Airways, but in the end is American Airlines.  

It is TIME TO GO HOME!

It will be strange once back on to have use of a keyboard for "typing" rather than thumbing.  

"Oh the places you will go."  Dr Seuss

Aggressive Swans

Day 31, June 18

Rickerby Grange Country House, Portinscale to The Elleray, Windermere 

2 buses to cover the 30 miles

"Travel teaches toleration".  Benjamin Disraeli 

I feel that I typically am a very tolerant person and respect other cultures and customs.  Traveling across England has reminded me of how similar this country is to my own, America, and yet, how a bit different. The people here are not quite the same as at home. Just because we speak the same language, sort of, hard to understand some accents, and physically there are similarities, this is a different country.  

Today while attempting to eat a chicken and mushroom pastry on a bench by Lake Windermere something happened that I didn't quite tolerate.  A very Large, White, SWAN, with an ankle bracelet, came and stood directly in front of me.  At first it was exciting as I took photos, then it kept standing and staring at me from about two feet away.  Swan began to edge closer looking at my meal.  Lois began to say things like "back, back up swan".  Swan didn't budge.  Finally held up a trekking pole as a barrier between us.  I was getting prepared to stab swan if it came any closer.  Lois lost her tolerance with a beautiful white bird.  Soon a Japanese couple came and thought Swan so adorable and began taking their own photos.  Lois used the opportunity to escape bird fierceness.  

Japanese.  Windermere is over flowing with bus loads of Japanese.  Sidewalks streaming with Japanese tourists.  All with expensive cameras with gigantic lenses.  It was hot here today, but many of the foreign visitors must have felt it was chilly as they were wearing plaid cashmere scarves (newly purchased).  Many others of the Japanese women had beautifully colored parasols held over their heads. Those were Not umbrellas but objects of art.  

Caught a bus in Keswick (walk the 1.5 miles from B&B into town) in front of the Booths supermarket, to Ambleside.  Thought I would do one last walk, amble about while still in the Lake District between Ambleside and Windermere. When I got off the bus realized my knee was hurting, and I was tired.  Headed out of town towards the path up to the small mountain, but turned back.  Just didn't have the will to do it.  Caught another bus and rode the 5 miles to Windermere. 

Arrived too early to check in at the B&B so decided to give it a try going down the hill on the sidewalk to Bowness-on-Windermere a touristy town at the bottom of the hill, and on the shores of Lake Windermere which is 18 miles long. Today the lake was almost covered with boats of every type from simple rowboats, wooden canoes, steamers, sailboats, sculling boats for 8 rowers (they seem to be having lessons), standup paddle boards, etc.   

Across the lake up in the hills somewhere is where Beatrix Potter had lived and did all her famous drawings and wrote the books about Peter and his friends.  There are numerous stores here catering specifically to her, along with a sort of museum, and an "attraction" called The World of Beatrix Potter".  Maybe that is what the Japanese have come to see and not the fantastic Fells.  

Met a tiny pet being carried by its human mother who lives locally.  Had never seen that type of animal before.  It was a Tanuki, also called a racoon dog.  Native to Japan (ha ha), Siberia and China.  It made a little squeaky noise when I stroked its nose.  Learned it doesn't bark like a dog, just squeaks.  

As I was writing this blog entry, while lounging on the bed in my room on the 2nd floor (here called the 1st floor as the lower level is the "ground" floor and not the 1st floor), the window is wide open (hot here) and a tour bus went by below, the double decker kind, and a person with a microphone was describing the sites "and this is the center of Windermere...." traffic stalled and I looked out into the street below - the bus was full of Japanese. 

Happy Father's Day to all the various fathers in my extended life, but especially to Gary, the Super Hero Father to so many.  Much love and appreciation to you!

"It is good to have a end to a journey, but it is the journey that matters, not the end."  Ursula K. Le Guin

This has been a great journey, but I am ready to go home in 3 days.  Manchester tomorrow.  

Catbells and Castlerigg Stone Circle

Day 30, June 17

High above Keswick on a Beautiful day

 

"Don't put off for tomorrow what you can do today, because if you enjoyed it today, you can do it again tomorrow."  Oscar Wilde

Received directions at breakfast from my hostess who had trouble with giving directions, she kept confusing left and right.  Great way to start a Walk, with wrong information.  

Finally the day got underway with the backpack only holding waterproofs, and shorts and a banana.  

About two blocks along towards the main road through Portinscale saw a line of about 6 walkers crossing in front of me wearing green shirts.  Then there was a steady cluster of about 30.  Oh my, were all these people planning on climbing up to Catbells?  Then more and more green shirted walkers kept appearing.  Joined their ranks.  Finally asked someone what they were doing.  It was a Walking Marathon from Keswick to Ambleside for Cancer.  They were all fresh and excited.  But as the lady said, they had only compiled the first mile.  There were exactly 1,000 participants.  I was very pleased to break away from the throngs and go down to the 2 marina I came to and get on the official foot path for the morning hike - up to Catbells. 

The gentle path (at this point) wound through the private estate, possibly Lingholn?, where there were grazing, just inside the fence from me, about a dozen llamas, or were they alpacas?

This path eventually left the shade of the woods and the Up hill trek began.  As it was a sunny, and Hot day, people were out and about.  Not only was there a Lake Triathlon taking place in Keswick, there was another road biking event, the green shirted marathon walkers, and people just generally taking advantage of a beautiful June day in the Lakes, which typically would be a rainy area. 

Hundreds were on the climb up to Catbells!  Couples.  Families with small kids riding on backs of parents.  Kids climbing on their own who looked barely able to walk.  Dogs!  My goodness almost every 3rd set of people had a dog happily climbing. 

Talked with a couple who had a tiny spitfire of a Jack Russel.  The dog who in the last three days had climbed Snowden, Helvellyn, Scafell Pike, and today was enthusiastically doing Catbells with its human parents. 

Have some great photos of a Border Collie stopping and holding a pose before his attack on a stick, while his humans, with red faces, worked their way up to him.  A real "working" dog. 

Breathe deeply taking in views from the top of Catbells.  Well worth the stiff climb.  The entire Derwentwater was laid out below. Rising fells surrounded the entire ridge.  On each of the neighboring fells could clearly been seen foot Paths ascending to the tops.  People have been all over these mountains.  

Tried to get the brain to figure out exactly where I currently was standing, and which distant peaks and ridge lines had been crossed by these feet on the C2C.  That route would have been to the north of here, but there were so many lumpy rises it was hard to tell.  

Today felt exactly like that day above Black Sail Youth Hostel on Gray Knotts in that this landscape was exactly what I love and what I came here to absorb.   

Worked my way down the mountain on the path, against the tide of traffic. Found the wooded route out to the edge of Derwentwater to the Hawes End pier. Just as I arrived a steamer was pulling in.  Got on board for the easy/lazy way over to Keswick.  Steamer made two stops before the launch site. 

On arrival in Tourist Land (Banff, Canada only multiply the Visitors) became one of thousands of tourists, and it was Market day.  The entire central area was covered with a double row of tents with vendors selling not only fruit and veg (small area), but every other sort of item.  Books, toys, used clothing, dog leashes, candles, cheeses, spices, sheep rugs, wool sweaters.  It was crazy. It was fun. 

My first, and only stop, was at a Gelato shop.  Felt I deserved a treat after the mornings climb sf descent, and I don't necessarily have a taste for ice cream, but gelato!!!  Had a double scoop in a tub (dish). 

Wandered down the pedestrian walkway eating gelato.  Had my trekking poles clutched together under left arm, left hand holding tub of gelato, right hand trying to use camera as a captive owl was being presented to have its photo taken on a human's arm, for a fee.  Distracted Lois.  Took a few photos and moved down the street.  Stopped to take a bite of gelato and realized there was only ONE trekking pole under left arm.  Quickly returned Up street where an elderly lady was holding MY stick.  Worked my way into the crowd and showed her my matching purple Black Diamond pole.  Apparently while intent on the owl, one pole slipped away, fell into a storm drain and managed to get caught a couple feet down on the side. Had it gone straight down, purple pole would have been lost forever.  Thanked lady profusely.  

Once gelato was consumed the days goals were continued.  Had a map off the internet that wasn't very detailed, but set off to find Castlerigg Stone Circle.  It was one of the places I really wanted to visit.  Long 2 mile climb up hill, but on roadways. 

Castlerigg is the earliest British stone circle dating from 4,500 years ago.  Late Neolithic/Early Bronze Age. "Some stones in the circle have been aligned with midwinter sunrise and various lunar positions".  It was built in the Megalithic tradition.  

The stones are "set in a flat circle measuring 107 feet at its widest and 97 feet at the narrowest".

The stone circle is arranged on a wide open ridge within a bowl of majestic peaks rising above.  

A sign of my interest in the circle is that I took over 20 photos working my way around the location.  At one point had to go up to a family of 6 who seemed to have taken up residence leaning on one of the Main stones to chat with each other, and ask if they could move aside as I wanted to photograph the circle, and not Them.  

Easily walked the 2 miles downhill back to Keswick.  Still crowded with the crowds. 

Talked with a lady down from Glasgow who had 7 - SEVEN dogs with her.  They were all rescue dogs and she loved each of them. 

Can not get over the beautiful dogs here, and how well behaved they all are.  Far better than many humans at home when out in public. 

I think my iPhone screen has some issues.  Even with the Serious lifetime waterproof cover, the cover seems to have issues because of a banana it encountered this morning in my froggie.  

Items lost!  AWOL!  Just plain Gone:  comb left in Rosthwaite in my hurry to catch a bus (had an extra with - no problem), gold hoop earring with dolphin lost going up Kidsty Pike when headed east in blowing rain and cold - while trying to keep Martin and his dog Sullivan within distant eye range so I wouldn't get lost (kept shifting Buff around over head and ears - dolphin flew off someplace), today: the quart bag with bandaids/antibiotic/blister plasters (Compeed), seems to have vanished.  😾. Bought new Compeed at the Boots pharmacy, but regret loosing the other supplies. 

FOUND the bag with the bandaids!!!   So happy.  Never know when they might be needed!

Chinese Takeaway veggies, extra spicy, no rice or noodles, eaten at a picnic table outside the Booths grocery store.  Didn't feel bad as I have purchased items a few times over the past two days.  

"If you want to travel far and fast, travel light.  Take off all your envies, jealousy,  unforgiveness and fears." Cesare Pavese 

Derwent Pencil Museum

Day 29, June 16

Stone House Farm, St Bees to Rickerby Grange, Portinscale, Keswick 

Mostly Not by Foot. 

At breakfast many excited new Coast to Coast walkers eating the Full English.  Nothing cooked for me.  Toast?  No toast please.  

Carole my hostess gave me a warm hug and hoped I would return again someday.  Hard to say, but after 4 sleeps in her house that is probably enough. 

As there no longer is a bus from St Bees it was necessary to take the train to catch a bus.  Isn't it usually the other way around?  The train was at 10:28 so with plenty of spare time walked back to the Beach for a final farewell to the Irish Sea.  Also to watch the newest crop of C2C people departing and doing that first hill climb up the bluff, step, step, stop, pant, step, step, remember to breathe and try not to think about the size of the fells ahead in the coming days. 

Found a sweet Father Horse standing with his Son Horse in a pasture right near the soccer field.  Both were posing nicely for me showing off their maleness.  

The St Bees Prep school for boarders and day students closed about a year ago due to finances, but there are plans to open in the next year.  The school was founded in 1583 by the Arch Bishop of Canterbury, Edmund Grindal. 

Too bad my photos can not be shared as there are some nice ones from inside St Bees Priory Church.  Lots of old tomb stones dating from the 1300's

There was a stone carved above the door which probably dates from 1100. It is of St Michael and the Dragon. The influenced clearly by Scandinavians who were settling here at that time is clear.  

Talked with an elderly man by the church cemetery. He lives some place up High on a ridge.  Out one window he can see some special Fell (can't remember what), out another window he can see Scotland, and out another the Isle of Man - if the weather cooperates.  Today was not a cooperative day. 

He had just gotten a new car yesterday with a giant monitor that does all sorts of things.  But he had left his iPad at home so couldn't play with the new toy.  He used to work for the railroad and went on to tell me his various routes. 

One train and Two buses to get to Keswick.  This person was feeling tired.  Had planned to do a hike once in Keswick but between the heavy cloud cover, rain, and a tired body did not.  Tomorrow is supposed to be great so will get out then. 

Instead went to the Derwent Pencil Museum. It was interesting.  The museum was "a journey of graphite and pencil discovery from its chance beginnings through to modern day production.   There was also the secret World War II Pencil developed to hide a map and a compass.  

Graphite was discovered by accident in the Borrowdale area.  

Saw the Worlds Largest colored pencil

According to a sign "14,000,000,000,000 pencils are made every year (not just here), and those would be enough to circumnavigate the earth 62 times."

Queen Elizabeth II visited the Pencil factory at some point (it was a Big Deal).  They had a commemorative Pencil made just for her.  Well, they actually had two made.  One was presented her, and the other is on display at the museum.  Where the eraser typically would be these two special pencils were topped with white gold and were encrusted with 60 diamonds in the shape of a crown.  

Tonight's B&B is 1.5 miles out of Keswick, but there is a flat footpath connecting the two locations. A bit muddy, but what is more mud. Only problem is now that Walk is needed to collect food.  Back from food collection.  Had scampi from one of the many Fish and Chip shops.  It was so so.  Deep fried, heavily battered.  Probably will not get that again. Found rhubarb yogurt at the large grocery store Booths.  Finally!  Used it to "cleanse" the mouth of grease. 

England has been crossed TWICE one way or another

Day 28 Walking (I WALKED), June 15

Low Cock How, Ennerdale Bridge to Stonehouse Farm, St Bees

13.8 miles, but a few were nipped off. 

6.5 hours.  Tired, but knew the end was near and wanted to Complete the official trek.  Tomorrow begins a few days of "a bit beyond and being a tourist".

"A mind that is stretched by new experiences can never go back to its old dimensions."  Oliver Wendell Holmes

At breakfast the other couple was from Manchester and they "love walking in the rain".  For the first day of their walk they only went to Cleator Moor and saved Dent Hill for the 2nd day.  Felt sorry for them because of what they would have to deal with today.  The Long walk around Ennerdale Water, 5 miles on the road up to Black Sail, and then it becomes challenging. Didn't say anything to discourage them, but do wonder how they will manage.  

The howling winds and rain from overnight died down.  When first looking out of a  window this morning could barely see 20 yards due to thick mist.  Gradually as I walked the mist lifted and the wind became "normal" wind. No problem. 

Dorethy my host showed a route to avoid Dent Hill.  Gratefully followed her advice which certainly helped the knee.  Also in going that new way many more of her beautiful horses were out grazing and watched with curiosity as a human with a large pack on her back and dressed in black passed through their munching territory. 

At Moor Row (name of a tiny hamlet) sat on the same bench as 4 years ago, ate the same kind of traditional Cornish pasty, had a bottle of a cold fizzy orange drink, all again from Su Ellen's pastry shop. 

Met the first C2Cers heading east.  A father and daughter team from Canada.  Last year the father had attempted to do it with his wife, but she refused to go beyond Orton.  That Walk came to an end.  They both said how difficult it was to train for this as where they live it is perfectly flat. 

Just above St Bees met 3 women from Salt Lake City who were just getting started and were supposed to be at Ennerdale Bridge this evening.  It was already 2:30. Felt a bit sorry for them and the long haul they still had to do. But, they gave me a "hip hip hooray" and waved their trekking poles in the air before they plodded on. 

Worked the body down the bluff above St Bees to the sea front/beach.  Beach?  It was completely covered with pounding waves.  No way was this person going to step out into that strength.  Rounded up a couple and asked them to take a couple photos of this crazy/mad person who left this beach 4 weeks ago, and had now returned.  

Back in my old room at Stone House Farm (4th time here).   Today's walking clothes were  stomped on in the shower,  and now are draped over the heating unit.   Checked on bus times for tomorrow's transportation and learned the bus no longer comes here.  Will go out shortly to learn train times to get this person to a town where there is bus service to Keswick where I shall be a tourist and possibly get a few more walks in. 

Like - "The Little Engine That Could" - I was determined to get this body and its troublesome back, misplaced ribs, bad hip, ankle, lower leg, bunion, ball of foot, and most recent the Right Knee - across this beautiful, and very rainy, country named England- TWICE.   It has been done!

"All that is gold does not glitter.  Not all those who wander are lost."  J.R.R. Tolkien 

I would like to dedicate this trip to my cousin June who loved to travel, loved exploring, loved life, and who passed away too soon.  TO June! 🥂

Slate Mine named Honister

Day 27 Walking, June 14

Royal Oak, Rosthwaite to Low Cock Farm, Ennerdale Bridge (which actually is 1.5 miles out of village). 

16.2 Miles. 8.5 hours (too many)

"Traveling tends to magnify all human emotions."  Peter Hoeg

Lois rode the local bus up to the Honister Slate Mine which eliminated 2.5 miles Up Up Hill.  Good thing.  It was an Exhausting day not only for the knee, but the entire body.  No way to have shortened it.  The first 4 hours I felt great.  The last 4.5 Not So great. 

The Royal Oak was one of the main, almost only, establishments, in the valley.  It is a rather old hotel with crooked heavy wooden beams holding up the ceilings.  The floors dip and rise often down a short stretch of hallway.  

Besides long distance walkers like myself, there are many who come here for day walks in the mountains high above.  They come year after year and stay sometimes for a week, or more.  

There is Afternoon tea and scones served between 3:30 and 5.  Dinner is at 7:30.  Last night someone came through banging a loud gong to announce we should move as a group to the dining room where assigned tables were pointed out.  Dinner was a 4 course meal.  

Lois had earlier requested to only have the "main" as she couldn't possibly eat all that food without feeling sick.  First course was soup and the server tried to give me a bowl.  It was declined.  He said "it is vegetarian".  What did that have to do with too much food? Main course was the Cumberland sausage (what if I was a vegetarian?), which if uncoiled would have been about a foot long.  Some strange sliced white objects which at first were thought to be scalloped potato but tasted more like apples.  Didn't eat that.  On the side platter were mashed potatoes, carrots and broccoli.  Yum!!!  Veggies!  Veg, as they say here.  Everyone else had the dessert which was some kind of concoction in a tall glass with cream, berries and fluff.  On the sideboard, dresser here, were 5 kinds of cheeses, crackers, grapes, and celery.  Back in the sitting room were coffee and dark chocolate candy.  

Had nothing to do with the coffee, but took a piece of candy on my way outside to use the wifi in a separate room.  

When stopping to collect a glass of wine and having it charged to my room the lady says "oh, you are the one who didn't want all the food".  If I had eaten all that food I would have been the one wallowing about in the tub.  

The people who are staying here for more than one night all have a similar look about them. Not just facially, but there is that also, but how they dress. The elderly men and women look like their clothing, probably their best clothing and used for holidays, has been kept in mothballs for the past 40 years.  Things seen on British murder mystery programs.  Odd heavy weight skirts that hang down someplace between knees and ankles.  Frumpy blouses, yes blouses, not tops or shirts, and weird sweaters or jacket type items.  Oh, and Practical shoes.  But they were all very sweet and pleasant people and interested in my "crazy and mad" walk. 

Picked up a book in the lounge last night as there was nothing to do in the room (no TV, no wifi).  "A Lakeland Summer" by Elizabeth Battrick.  Simple, but interesting as it covers one summer when the author was 12 years old and came with her family to this area in the early 1930's,  and she learned to be a Fell Walker.  Her grandfather made everyone go out every day and hike up and down different peaks, some I recognized, most I didn't.  Grandfather didn't allow them to carry any water or flask of tea.  They brought only sandwiches and sometimes a few hard candies in their pockets (covered with pocket fuzz).  Instead of water they ate Apples, which apparently solves the thirst issues.  

Grandfather would "assign" them routes, give a few directions, and leave them to find their own way down into a different valley where they would be collected by vehicle.  

No wonder people who live locally are so good at hiking, and have been up and down seemingly everywhere.  It has been a part of their lifestyle since they could walk.  And, the wind and rain don't seem to make a difference, if anything dealing with the elements adds more excitement to the day.  What a wimp I feel in comparison being troubled by days that are not warm and sunny.  

I ate porridge with brown sugar, tart grapefruit with yogurt, one slice of "brown". 

American family from Cheyenne all had the Full English breakfast. 

Walked a bit to the bus stop and caught the one and only heading up to the Honister Pass. Got off at the Slate Mine, visited the shop, bought nothing, peered in the windows at the workers cutting and polishing the living Slate, made use of the "facilities".   Bought a sandwich for later.  Departed and climbed up the old mining tramway.  

3 men climbed up and passed me wearing odd things attached to their backpacks.  Asked one what he was carrying.  A demonstration was made of the wooden object.  They were out surveying for BUTTERFLIES and hoped it would be sunny. Kept seeing them ahead for a block of time stopping and scanning the distance with Serious binoculars. 

Could clearly see where my Big mistake was made 4 years ago and I ended up unintentionally on Haystack and had to find a way down.  Difficult.  

This time followed the regular path over to Grey Knotts. Amazing views down towards The Buttermere Water.  At one point could see both Buttermere and Ennerdale Water, and the Irish Sea way off in the distance as a Flat bluish space.  Lots of photos, sorry I can not share. 

This mornings landscape and views were exactly what I came to England of see!  Stunning!  Why did the last week and a half have to be miserable?  Why did the knee have to become miserable?

The views were straight out of the Sound of Music!  I could have been Julie Andrews if wearing a dress and apron, and if I could sing. Spectacular!  

The descent from Grey Knotts to the Black Sail Youth Hostel was Steep. Fortunately there was no major water flowing downhill over the rocks to make them slippery.  Went slowly.  Drop bad knee first if possible.  If the distant view is needed to be seen - stop walking - then look, or it would be flat on the face tumbling down the mountain.  Descent probably took 30 minutes.  

Black Sail Hut was a major hub of activity. Mountain bikers and C2C walkers sprawled about the grass eating Energy.  

Chewed my sandwich while talking with a couple from Washington.  There was some confusion about where they were from.  She, said Washington.  He, said Utah.  Not quite sure what their relationship was, but whatever, it was their business, and they had a stiff climb ahead of them.  

At the Black Sail Youth Hostel took the rain jacket off for the first time in the past week and a half.  

Long road walk down through the forest (5 miles).  Coming down from the high open spaces the smell of the pine trees was so different from smells of the past 4 weeks.  The aroma of high elevation mountain woods was strong. 

The trudge around the lake (Ennerdale Water) was long, tedious, tiring, difficult. Took the north side as it was not as rocky or the need to scramble as much, but longer.  Took 1.75 hours to reach the western edge.  Then the trek  into town.  It was painful.  

Stopped at the Fox and Hounds for a snack as I knew there was No Way this person would do the 3 mile round trip back into Ennerdale Bridge to get food later.  Exhausted.  

Climbed out, up, and down to the Low Cock How farm where Dorethy gave me tea with homemade Shortbread cookies.  I have my own room, but the bathroom is not only down the hall and turn right, but down the steps, turn right again, then left through 2 rooms.   There are two bedrooms each with 2 beds in on my half of the guest area.  On the other half are two more rooms each with 2 beds. In between down on the lower level is a large room called The Bunkhouse. That had beds for 10 people.    That means there could possible 18 guests staying here at one time - there are only 2 bathrooms!!!! 

Low Cock How is also known as the Bradley's Riding Center.  As I came up the road not only was the open area covered with sheep, there were probably 20 horses munching grass and causing the cars to stop and as they wandered about the one lane road.  Three horses came walking right up to me, so I scratched the very long noses.  The area where the horses were grazing is known as The Common, meaning it is common land for everyone, and every animal to graze. 

While chewing the shortbread I asked Dorothy how many horses they have.  About 60.  She said there were probably about 25 Up where I saw them.  Don't know where the rest are munching their lives away.  Serious horse people!

A Bus, A Boat, A Set of Feet

Day 26, June 13

Beck Allan, Grasmere to Royal Oak, Rosthwaite 

7.6 miles.  Lois did an alternate route and walked 3 hours.  

"Take only memories, leave only footprints."  Chief Seattle 

I am leaving my footprints back and forth across England.  Have a phone loaded with photographs.  But my mind will remember far more details with each photo.  Chief Seattle would have approved. 

Last night as I was drifting off to sleep someone in the room next to mine took a bath.  Bathing sounds came clearly through the wall.  Not just splashing, but body rubbing against the tub. Sounded like a walrus wallowing about.  Noise continued.  I began to laugh.  Almost turned on the camera to video to capture the flipping and squeaking about.  Not sure at breakfast which of the 4 possible couples who the swimming creature might have been, and of course I could not mention it. 

Breakfast was fresh fruits, finally, museli, extra seeds in Greek yogurt.  Croissant!  And 2 rye crisp crackers with "mild" cheddar - best cheddar yet.  Crackers and cheese came with in the froggie for later snacking. 

The B&B was located next to a stream with a stone wall between.  Christine went out and spread crumbs and seeds for the ducks.  One poor duck only had one leg. It managed to get around fine.  She always feeds that one separately and she felt sorry for it. 

There have been many places that use the word Lion in their name:  White Lion, Red Lion, Black Lion, and just Lion, but today saw a Golden Lion. 

Set off from Grasmere on the route out of town towards the Easedale Beck and the pass at Greenup Edge.   As I got closer could clearly see the waterfall flowing down the mountain wide and white.  Began to think about that potential problem for the day after yesterday's stream crossing which looked nowhere near as large as what was now being seen from quite a distance away.  

Began to get "cold feet" about the prospect of having to cross that water over and over all morning.  Decided to have a change of plans. First, was mentally troubled over the news in the email this morning from Gary.  Him and Olivia had to deal with another Flood situation at 1648 Main.  Worried about that.  Second, the knee had throbbed all night and it was difficult to find a position to keep it happy. Third, that stream, now torrent of water coming down was where 3 weeks ago when crossing on boulders I miss stepped and the right leg crashed into the rock and my cheek hit another boulder and was sore for a week or more.  That day the water level was nothing compared to what I saw today.    No Way was this hiker climbing up there. 

Walk back to town.  Investigate options.  Waited over an hour for the bus to Keswick to appear. When it arrived it was Packed with people.  Had to stand for the half hour ride. 

Chatted with a nice elderly man while Bus waiting who was going to Keswick specifically to see the Art Museum, and afterward take a day hike.  He has hiked all over these hills. Interesting conversation.  

In Keswick learned that besides walking the road to the Borrowdale Valley where Rosthwaite is located, there was the option of covering 4 miles by boat on the Derwentwater.    Had a boat ride on the Lakeland Mist. Sat next to a family from India who were doing all the touristy things.  There was a beautiful little girl in the family with the largest eyes.  

Walked the road for two hours to the Royal Oak hotel.  The sun, almost, came out.  Took the waterproofs off for the first time in over a week.  

My room has no wifi (only available in a certain place elsewhere), no TV (only available in a certain place elsewhere), the bathroom is across the hall (but it is all mine), and there is a sink in my room, so that is a bonus.  

As Rosthwaite is out in the middle of a valley surrounded by high mountains there are no stores, pubs or restaurants.  Dinner is cooked here.  Served at 7:30.  And tonight will be Cumberland sausage.  Have never had it, so this might or might not be interesting. 

Cumberland sausage was okay. Only ate half of the coiled thing, but absolutely all of the carrots and broccoli.  Learned that English mustard is HOT. The options were French or English.  I tried both expected the English to be bland like everything else here in the way of food.  It about blew my sinuses away.  

Met a lady in the room where the wifi only works.  Christina from Cheyenne, WY doing the C2C with her spouse (partner) and three 20 something children.  They were a lively bunch with much chatter between them.  

Return to Wordsworth Land by the Difficult Route

Day 25 of the Expedition (people think I am "Mad"), June 12

White Lion, Patterdale to Beck Allan, Grasmere 

8.4 miles in 5 hours.  I WALKED!

I feel generally am feeling stronger, except for the knee.  

"Life is either a daring adventure or nothing."  Helen Keller

At breakfast talked with the 2 women at the next table.  British.  They decided they would attempt the C2C and do it in record time.  Their plan is 9 days of walking (5 less than my plan of 14 days each way).  Yesterday they walked from Rosthwaite to Patterdale, which almost always is done in 2 days.  High ambitions.  But, one of them is having trouble with her knees.  Both are painful, swollen, and there is even bruising behind both knees.  Me, I think they have over estimated their ability and the strain on the body.  Will never know what their final outcome is, but from what I saw this morning, it doesn't look good.  

It was a stiff climb up to the pass.  Rising on the right was Striding Edge and on the left St Sunday Crag.  In 2013 I did the St Sunday Crag route on my return as I felt full of energy (no injuries to baby along) and the sky was perfectly clear.  Amazing views.  Today had to use the trekking poles as serious brakes due to the heavy winds with unexpected occasional gust of what seemed like tornado blasts.  

Climbed past the site of "death of the C2C woman", but it was unrecognizable.  Looked like every other part of the trail - Rocky (very rocky), Muddy (very muddy), and water flowing straight down the path (very much lots of water).

Stopped and sheltered behind a side wall at the Ruthwaite Lodge (highest structure on the route, but permanently locked).  Ate some chunks of that Cadbury chocolate bar being carried for days on my back.  

Keep climbing Up.  

Worried all morning while struggling upward about the crossing on the rocks at the bottom of the tarn (lake).   Kept thinking about the recent week of heavy rain and wondered if the water level might have risen higher and the rocks submerged.   

Great relief as the tarn came into view.  There were people crossing the rocks.  Lots of people!  All coming towards me.

Carefully I worked the trekking poles, feet and knees towards the tarn.  The rocks were still above the water level (barely).  But there was some serious slow foot placements on this persons part to get the body and pack across.  Some leaping was necessary. Really a leap of faith and trust the boot will not slip.  

Then time to relax and chat with the lines of hikers coming towards me. The first set of people turned out to be 8 headed towards Robin Hoods Bay,  from Ohio.  They were excited about everything.  

Talked with another man (Oxford) who knew where Wisconsin was, Green Bay Packers and Cheeseheads.  I thought he was walking alone.  As I was about to start off he said "give some encouragement to Christine". Then a lady's head slowly climbed into view.  A very Red lady's face.  Walked down to her and asked if she was the person I was to give encouragement to.   Made her smile.  Keep working way down steep slope.  

Probably encountered 45 walkers today.  Most memorable would be the couple from the Netherlands.  They began the walk at St Bees wearing rain ponchos and shorts. Yesterday in Grasmere each had purchased a full set of waterproofs and seemed very pleased with the money spent. 

The descent is always difficult in normal times, but add in a naughty knee and the personal feeling of being vulnerable (just climbed past the site of the trail death - still not identified), made each foot placement important.  

Came to the biggest hiking issue of the day.  A Major rushing stream (practically a river that had over flowed its banks) coming down with all the accumulated water from the high elevations.  Serious consideration of where this person would cross.  At the position where the actual path crossed or elsewhere.  Lower down the water flow was spread out wider and the large boulders for possible foot placement further apart.  Lois climbed higher up close to the bottom of the huge waterfalls.  There looked like a potential crossing.  

Carefully placed poles in the rushing water.  When they were firmly planted stepped forward, through space and let the left foot land on a Dry rock.  Now the tricky part.  Replant only one of the poles.  Time for the naughty right knee to perform.  Pull body up, lift right leg, make it stretch and land firmly on the next Dry rock.  Breathe!  Repeat movements.  Firm land!   I was still breathing. I was not being swept over the edge in rushing ice cold water.  Move forward down hill.

There were probably 8 more stream crossings, but they were minor in comparison to that major first one.  Pieces of cake actually.  

After crossing the Pass, and getting beyond that first heart stopping stream crossing there was time to look up and examine the view.  The clouds had lifted and there were good views down the valley towards Grasmere, and off in the distance to the west, actual clear skies.  Ennerdale Water could be seen, and beyond that the Irish Sea, which this walker will reach on Thursday.  

Walked in to Grasmere and found tonight's home.  Beck Allan Guest House.  Ian and Christine welcomed me.  Leave boots and trekking poles outside in the cold (poor boots I am sure they would have preferred a warm night with me in my room). 

Was served fruit cake in their kitchen as they learned about my walk. They too thought I was "mad".  This place is made up of several parts.  I am in the guest house room 7. There are also apartments for self-catering and a converted train car.  Must be an expensive bit of real estate right in the center of this very touristy town. 

Lots of Asian visitors wandering about the small streets eating ice cream (it is chilly and rainy here) and on quests to pay tribute to William Wordsworth (Dove Cottage).

Last night at the White Lion in Patterdale my bedroom was at the end of the hall.  Immediately on entering there were 2 steps down to the small area where the bed was.  The bathroom (listed as en-suite) in my materials from Brigantes, was down the hall past 3 other bedrooms, down one step, and on the right.  Oh, and on the left were the stairs to the ground floor.  Don't turn left in the middle of the night and fall down.  

Tonight's room is the opposite of last nights.  Queen size bed, white duvet, Bath TUB (only the 4th so far).  Felt a bit like Royalty soaking.   

Can't figure out how to turn on the TV, but that is fine.  This might be the night to catch up on the missed TV series from home. 

Heavy Rain, Route Altered

Day 24 Walking, June 11

Kings Arms, Shap to White Lion, Patterdale

15.4 miles but Lois took the "alternate" low route.  

Not sure about miles, but walked for 3.5 hours 

"Man cannot discover new oceans unless he has courage to lose sight of the shore."  Andre Gide

Watched weather forecast last night and this morning (no more election news) and it looked dismal.  Not great for the long trudge before and along Haweswater preceding the steepest climb on the C2C back up to Kidsty Pike.  

Questioned everyone about their walk yesterday, and what would be Lois' today.  Some had taken a "low level" route from Patterdale to Shap that was longer, but avoided the high peak/ridge walk.  

At breakfast still had not decided.  There were No buses from Shap.  No taxis.  This trekker had made up her mind to do the official route as it was shorter and hope the knee would take the beating.  Put on a lidocaine patch.  Ibuprofen.  Two knee braces.  Waterproof jacket, pants, gloves, buff.   Zip up tight.  

Seated next to me eating eggs was a hiker from Romania.  She was walking with her sister who had left earlier with another couple.  This remaining sister was injured.  Yesterday she had managed the long rain and windswept hike up to Kidsty Pike, maneuvered her way down the steep slope, and once down at the bottom on the semi flat path along Haweswater twisted her ankle on a rock.  Her leg was Very swollen (unlike mine that never puffed up).  She was in pain and very upset about her long distance walk most likely coming to an end.  She would be getting rides with the baggage carrier.  

Well, the boots and gloves which were soaked yesterday did not dry overnight.  No heat in the room. This morning used the hairdryer with hot heat to try to dry them out.  Not much difference.  

Shove feet into very damp boots.  Zip up hooded jacket.  Walk away from dryness and warmth.  

Stopped at Co-Op for sandwich.  Coronation chicken.  Spinach, sultans. Mango chutney, spiced mayo, on an onion seeded bread.  It looked interesting, but have decided it will be the last packaged sandwich this person will buy. 

Followed route out of town towards Shap Abbey.  Shap is located down in a valley so Up is the only way whether headed towards Robin Hoods Bay or St Bees.  Aimed the feet West towards those Lake District peaks.   The sky kept getting darker and darker gray.  Ominous looking weather.  Windy.  Very gusty winds.  Came to an intersection where one road would commit the walk up Kidsty Pike or the option of the low level route which was longer, but skirted around that ridge that is all lumpy mountains.  

No major time involved in decision making.  Low level it would be.   Didn't need to be blown off a ridge just to achieve something that I have already checked off my list.  

Problem with choosing to go off route was No Maps.  Last night had sort of looked at someone else's map, even took photos of locations (but today couldn't figure out where I was in comparison to the images I took) 

Followed road towards Brampton Grange then to Brampton.  Met a group of three who were from Mexico.  Only long distance walkers seen today, but then I was Off Route, and later Astray. We exchanged the usual, where are people going, and where have they come from.  They had taken the low route yesterday, and that was what I was aiming for. 

Hunker down inside Marmot waterproofs, which are not totally waterproof any longer.  Keep walking.  Eat the remaining portion of a Bounty bar (coconut cover with chocolate). 

Walk.  Keep walking.  Without a map couldn't tell where the feet were.  Wind and rain. Walk.  

Began watching for a Footpath/bridleway that would go off to the left, over a moor, and towards Howtown Pier, where I could either walk the remaining 6 miles along the lake to Patterdale, or take the Lady of the Lake steamer (preferred option). 

Couldn't find footpath and began to wonder where exactly these knees were.  Finally came to a bridleway, but it didn't seem to match description by the others.  Climbed up toward a little settlement.  Knock on 3 doors.  No answer.  4th house a man appeared.  He looked at what I had as a poor map (brochure advertising the steamer and their map only showed the Lake) where I wanted to be going.  I was Not Where I should have been, again.  Confusing. He gave directions.  Lois chatted and explained knee problem. 

Man said he would drive me down to Pooley Bridge, and from there could either take the steamer down the lake, or a bus.  Yes, in this location there was a Sunday bus, every 2 hours.  Very generous of the man.  Lois was extremely appreciative.  

Arrive in Pooley Bridge and learned the Steamer was not running at all due to the high winds.  But, the bus was going!!!  

Happy camper/happy hiker.  Hung about, ate that funny chicken sandwich.  Bus arrived.  Half hour ride around Ullswater.  Delivered to Patterdale.  

Learned more about the historic flood in December 2015 when the area received an immense amount of rain in a short block of time, wiped out bridges, flooded businesses and communities all around the Ullswater lake area. 

Bus back to the White Lion.  Smallest room, but it is fine.  If they would turn the heat on it would help.  Bathroom, up two steps, out the door, down hall, down one step, turn right.  But it is mine and I have a key for it.  

Anytime the weather would like to put on a better face, would be perfectly fine with this walker.  Ending the walk in better conditions might be nice.  

Downstairs at the White Lion the two guys were sitting who are also going to St Bees. They had camped last night.  Almost been blown over on Kidsty Pike today.  Now both have hurt their knees.  The Walking Wounded keep increasing.  

Rain, Muck, Boggy, Wetness

Day 23 Walking, June 20

Fletcher House, Kirkby Stephen to King's Arms Hotel, Shap 

Officially 20 miles, Lois walked the last 7 only.  4 hours over bogs, mud and very uneven trails.

Took taxi to Orton to cut off those beginning miles where originally the knee was injured climbing up and over the multitude of stiles. 

"Do not follow where the path may lead.  Go instead where there is no path and leave a trail."  Ralph Waldo Emerson

There was a path, sort of, and it was good that I had a general sense of the direction where the path was supposed to be.  Between the mud, overflowing streams, heavy rain with low cloud cover, it was often difficult to know where the actual path was, and it was left up to me to make a new trail. 

So nice to finally be able to FaceTime last night with Gary and Olivia.  Special!

Yesterday in Shap had a great lunch.  It was the Best tuna sandwich yet.  Served on a crunchy baguette with salad and chips.  No evening meal was needed as lunch was filling.  And at Fletcher House rather than the hosts serving tea and cake and guests have to sit around, formally (often in damp and muddy clothes), there the cake and cookies were left on a table in a large Tupperware type container.  And there was a machine that produced all sorts of coffees, and hot chocolate.  Kind of like a hotel lobby (in America). 

People could help themselves when they felt like it.  This trekker chose to take a slice of lemon cake with icing, after the shower, and walked/limped about Kirkby Stephen while chewing the sweetness. 

On the road in to Kirkby Stephen my route went through Suburbia.  A very modern community of identical individual homes, complete with real yards and fences.  One larger home was set apart up on a slight hill and the green grass was a massive display to every other property seen. That grass actually would have been mowed, and not just chewed down by sheep.  Very green, kind of like Kentucky Blue. 

Two couples at breakfast this morning.  As I arrived first I chose the best table.  It was set into the bumped out bay window area with a good view of the front flowers and the High Street beyond their gate. 

One couple was British and the other Australian (Melbourne).  Lots of chatting back and forth across the room.  After the Australians finish the C2C they travel to France where they will walk two weeks on the El Camino way. 

As museli and fresh fruit was being chewed I looked out the windows and saw a man who was coming in the gate.  He saw me and Waved.  I smiled and waved back.  He rang the bell.  It was the driver to collect luggage for the others who were possibly smarter and chose to not carry all their possessions on their backs (me).   The man in the entry came straight into the dinning room with a huge smile on his face.   It was Joe, my Packhorse driver who delivered this limping hiker from Richmond to Ingleby Cross a couple weeks ago.  Right away he asked how my journey was going, and How Was the Knee?  

Off in another country, and people recognize me from long ago.  Kind of feel special.  

At one point while trudging, at a confusing place where there were numerous potential options for going astray, and where a sign post had fallen down, someone had stretched out a pair of white mens briefs with C2C and an arrow pointing to the right, painted on.  Certainly an eye catcher out there where everything else was bright green, black muck, dirty sheep, and heavy cloud cover. 

Cold tomato and onion cheese quiche eaten huddled behind The Huge boulder deposited by the glacier.  Shivering a lot so quickly moved on.  

One Way traffic count for today.   At least 39 trekkers aimed for Robin Hoods Bay.  One large group all together were 12 Australians. There were other Australians but separate.  One couple from Virginia.  One solo man from Seattle. 

Most Australians were wearing those wide brimmed hats. Most of the women were hiking in shorts or skorts.  All in short pants had bright red legs from the cold, rain and wind. 

Went off trail to find again the prehistoric double stone circle near Oddendale.  It was about as remembered, interesting, but not magnificent, tiny, compared to Stonehenge.

On arrival at Shap had leek and potatoe soup at a cafe.  This person was the only one leaving a dripping muddy mess in the chair and area about the chair (trekking poles, huge backpack, froggie, and Sealskinz gloves). The bottoms of the rain paints were not only covered with mud, but lots of plant life picked up along the way. 

After soup went to the tiny grocery to get a few items.  On leaving saw 2 hikers standing near a building.  It was the same guys first seen by the Wainstones, a couple hours later at Lord Stones Cafe, and again later that day as they were ahead of me crossing that pasture where shortly after I got so totally confused in the trees and went completely wrong. They are planning on camping tonight by Haweswater (good luck in the rain). One of the guys, with his chin pierced, has injured his knee so he is limping along wounded.  Knees seem to be the big injury, aside from falling and dying.  

My room here in the King's Arms Hotel has 3 twin beds.  I chose the bed "center stage". Best to see TV, and closest to electrical outlet.  

Rained All Day.  SOAKED. 

BOOTS soaked inside due to immersion in bogs, streams, sheep droppings.  Boots now with bath towels shoved inside to try to absorb moisture.  It would help if they would turn the heat on. 

Socks soaked and muddy.  Washed and hanging to dry, but wool does not dry quickly.  

Lois soaked!!!!

Laundry draped about room buy doubt it will dry. That means a. It extra weight to carry tomorrow. 

Ending the day watching BBC 4 and a program about The Ancient Ridge Way, located near where I have been walking.  Part of the old Roman road.  Interesting.  Am also jealous of the man who is describing everything and his carefree way of just walking normally about the fells. Someday soon I hope to walk normally again. K-nee Mend!

Farewell Yorkshire Dales National Park

Day 22 Walking, June 9

Keld Lodge, Keld to Fletcher House Kirkby Stephen 

11.8 miles.  I walked.  Took the one lane road. 

4.5 hours. 

"People travel to faraway places to watch, in fascination, the people they ignore at home."  Dagobert D. Runes

Could not get any weather forecasts this morning on the TV.  Every channel was only running the news about the British Election results.  

Very FRUSTRATING not to upload my photos to fit into the sequence of the days.  Trust I will be able to piece it together once back home. 

The other channels were all about selling products to clean the grout between tiles or exercise equipment (gimmicky things demonstrated by stick thin young people). 

At breakfast talked with the lady next to me. She is from Holland and is walking the Pennine Way.  21 days with extra days in Edinburgh before returning to her flat homeland.  

The two American couples were seated in front of me and all their talk was about whether they would take the high level route up by the lead mines, or the low route down by the river through the flowers, with many stile crossings.  

One of the ladies made the comment "we don't own out children, we just borrow them".

Last evening in the lounge one of the walker's son is a Sword Swallower and a Juggler. He can swallow 3 swords at once and 

Currently lives in Los Angeles.  

Climbed the narrow bare road up to the top of the moors.  Past the B&B where guests can stay in yurts.  Saw some of the gypsies with their caravans and old style wagons parked near a field.  The Appleby Horse fair in Cumbria begins this weekend.  It is a big deal and gypsies and other travelers come from not only all over Britain but Europe. Even here in Kirkby Stephen there were signs of it.  Lots more people on the streets and sidewalks, and numerous pairs of police walking among everyone.  When I was here two weeks ago, not one police officer was seen. 

The walk went fine.  I have taken to wearing two knee braces on the right leg.  

Considering taking a taxi part way tomorrow as it is a 20 mile day, and I think that might be too much.  Want to be able to walk as much as possible in the last days after tomorrow.  

"Life begins at the end of your comfort zone."  Neal Donald Walsch

(Backup) Rain Again - Indiana Family - AND - 3/4 Complete

Day 21 Walking, June 8

Cambridge House, Reeth to Keld Lodge 

11 miles. Walked the first 6, then took bus to Keld. 

3 Hours was enough for this hiker. 

" A traveler sees what he sees.  A tourist sees what he had come to see."  G. K. Chesterton 

Breakfast at Cambridge House.  Trout and scrambled eggs - encouraged by Gary.  Tasty.   Beautiful classical music came drifting from the kitchen.  Learned from Sheila that the music came from the wifi in the private quarters of the building.  Nice, but I would have appreciated the wifi working elsewhere in the ancient stone structure.  Frustrating!!

England VOTES today.  

Mum  escorting the children uphill to school, in the rain. All 4 kids had the same books bag (required).  Infant along for the delivery snug under plastic cover.  

Canadian men at breakfast quite chatty about the Art world. The wife of one, Barbara, is a textile artist.  She will be coming to Reeth in September of 2018 for some sort of 'textile' festival.  Much talk about Sante Fe and an artist gallery.  The wife had really liked a piece of textile and inquired about the price.  Learned it was $16,000, but had been purchased that morning by the Smithsonian.  

My MARMOT rain gear seems to have reach the limits of product guarantee.  I was rather soaked today. The Indiana lady met at the tea shop had also a Marmot jacket and she replaced hers in Kirkby Stephen, and with the jacket her son was wearing.  I plan to complain once home. 

Very large.  Very lush.  Very green leaves today. 

It RAINED!

Approaching the village of Gunnerside. 

The Swaledale valley. 

Village community garden plot below in the triangle. 

Bus arrived and it was the same driver from two weeks ago.  After the other two passengers got off in Muker, with the plan he would collect them on his return journey, he started talking to me (his only paying person). 

Learned he had been contacted by an attorney from the US who had been trying to track him down.  He is the only surviving relative of someone who had passed away and left a lot of money.  The driver was set to inherit $5.5 million.  He was ecstatic, and hoped it would actually transpire.  He expect to hear yet today.  And, he didn't want those other two guys from the bus to know, yet  they had big ears and big mouths. 

The man gave me his card and said I should email him once I got home, first so he would know I and my knee survived, and 2nd to see if his fortune ship actually came through. 

His card said he was a "Renowned Materialzation Medium".   Chris Howard. 

Chocolate orange cake at the Ghyllfoot Tea Room.  

Stalled going back out into the rain with the family from Richmond, Indiana, mom and dad and son, and also a British couple.  The three tables kept sitting, talking, watching the clock and the rain.  I departed first and I planned to catch the Little White Bus for the remaining distance for today.  Knee issues.  Back/rib issues.  Rain issues.  Only cookies and small bag of crisps last night for a meal (low energy).  

Put away Coast to Coast map for the eastern half of the Walk.  Tomorrow begins the final stretch of the return to St Bees.  May the knees cooperate!

After arriving here at Keld Lodge (same bedroom from 2 weeks ago) and a long HOT SHOWER, curled up under a blanket and watch BBC. The program was A Place in Sun, Home or Away.   This time a couple was shown 3 properties in Derbyshire and 3 near Valencia, Spain.  The husband wanted the Derbyshire area.  The house were typical British cottages, small, and pricey.  The Spain properties were stunning, warm climate and for their money they could get so much more, including swimming pools.  They chose, lois' choice - SPAIN!

Tonight's C2C people who are forming their trail companionships. 

Dinner:  same chorizo starter "salad", and a side of overpriced veggies.  

One of the hikers at Keld Lodge made this statement "when I take a shower I don't get as wet as when I am walking."

Learned that the woman who fell up near the tarn above Grasmere and died, has still not been identified.  She had nothing on her to say who she was, and no cell phone.  At some point some family members will start to wonder where she is at, especially if they are used to her going off alone and being absent for a few weeks.  Poor lady!

Learned the difference in taste between a Spring lamb and a Summer lamb, if a person is that much a taste specialist of lamb.  Spring lambs have been eating Only milk from mommy.  Summer lambs have been eating grasses. 

"Travel makes one modest.  You see what a tiny place you occupy in the big  world."  Gustavo Flaubert

Only Words

Very frustrating.  Have spent a lot of time trying to rework the last couple days.  In the end my photos will not load.  

Day 21 Walking, June 8

Cambridge House, Reeth to Keld Lodge, Keld