Day 20 Walking, June 7
Cordilleras House, Richmond to Cambridge House, Reeth.
10 miles, 5 hours.
"Once you have traveled, the voyage never ends, but is played out over and over again in the quietest chambers. The mind can never break off the journey." Pat Conway
SLOW internet. Could not upload yesterday's blog back in Richmond, or here in Reeth, yet. And tomorrow in Keld have Serious doubts of Any internet ability. Two weeks ago in Keld it didn't work at all. Will keep writing and some day the blogs will post. Aw, the joys of rural country life 😬
Chatted at breakfast with a solo man in the C2C from Texas who was only going to Danby Wiske (half the distance I had been "assigned" to cross yesterday). There was also a couple from Ireland who were doing day hikes and dreaming of one day attempting the Coast to Coast. Small room. Everyone at their individual tables. Everyone begins talking to everyone.
Planned to stop at Elaine's Country Kitchen for mid walk/mid day food. Elaine's was CLOSED. Possibly permanently. Had tea and shortbread here on that previous round trip crossing of England.
Stopped in Marske. Sat on the bench and ate one of the Bounty candy bars stored in my food/cookie/snack section of the backpack.
When the trekker is walking alone, it is necessary to take a selfie.
Began to meet C2C walkers heading east. 9 today. One was a mom and daughter team from Boston who have relatives in southern Wisconsin.
Very muddy in the Whitecliffe woods. Necessary to step carefully and not slip into the goo.
Came to The white cairn marking where the trail turned off and headed down through pastures. Decided rather than descend the steep route would continue around the edge of the mountain and get on the paved road. Easier walking, but add on 1/2 mile.
Numerous very narrow gaps in the stone walls to get the human body through, and keep the sheep from escaping.
Missed the Paddy Bridge with my altered route. Fine, but that was where the Fox had been seen 4 years ago. Guess it was unlikely that another fox would run across the path at the exact moment Lois crossed this year.
Down through the wooded section of the 375 Nun's Steps. Far easier going down on the lungs and heart, but the knee had its own opinions.
The Very last candy from Stevens Point.
Very mossy stone walls in the woods by the nun's steps.
Arrived in Reeth and headed straight to the Post Office of snacks. The man behind the counter laughed when I stacked my choices and said "long day without food?" YES!
Sat in village center and observed life. Weather was far different than 2 weeks ago when it had been so hot and sunglasses needed to be purchased. Today - windy and chilly. And, very few hikers hanging about.
Rather lonely this return trip.
2nd part
About 3:30 climbed up to Cambridge House where Richard and Sheila welcomed me back - their long ago guest.
Decided to take up the offer of tea and cakes in their conservatory. Nice to sit (still sweaty and no shower) and visit with other guests. 2 men from Ontario on the C2C heading east. A local couple who come here every year for their holiday, and do day hikes. And two bikers.
Down from the heights, and the nun's steps, the ruins of Marrick Priory were past. Too bad Visitors are not allowed.
When climbing up and out of Richmond past West End B&B where I stayed in 2013. Knocked on the door as I wanted to see Sue, the hostess who had given me one of her paintings of bluebells, but there was no answer.
Keep noticing the people here look so much alike. Possibly because in this area (North Yorkshire) the families have lived here for generations/centuries. Not many outsiders have arrived to alter the gene pool. So not many variations on the theme.
Entry to Cambridge House.
Old style heat bottle for beds.
Where in America it is hard to find a location where the population all resembles each other (possibly Calhoun County in Illinois????). America is the great mixing pot of countries, cultures, ethnicities, and all churned up.
"Travel far enough and you meet yourself." David Mitchell
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