Beck Allan, Grasmere to Royal Oak, Rosthwaite
7.6 miles. Lois did an alternate route and walked 3 hours.
"Take only memories, leave only footprints." Chief Seattle
I am leaving my footprints back and forth across England. Have a phone loaded with photographs. But my mind will remember far more details with each photo. Chief Seattle would have approved.
Last night as I was drifting off to sleep someone in the room next to mine took a bath. Bathing sounds came clearly through the wall. Not just splashing, but body rubbing against the tub. Sounded like a walrus wallowing about. Noise continued. I began to laugh. Almost turned on the camera to video to capture the flipping and squeaking about. Not sure at breakfast which of the 4 possible couples who the swimming creature might have been, and of course I could not mention it.
Breakfast was fresh fruits, finally, museli, extra seeds in Greek yogurt. Croissant! And 2 rye crisp crackers with "mild" cheddar - best cheddar yet. Crackers and cheese came with in the froggie for later snacking.
The B&B was located next to a stream with a stone wall between. Christine went out and spread crumbs and seeds for the ducks. One poor duck only had one leg. It managed to get around fine. She always feeds that one separately and she felt sorry for it.
There have been many places that use the word Lion in their name: White Lion, Red Lion, Black Lion, and just Lion, but today saw a Golden Lion.
Set off from Grasmere on the route out of town towards the Easedale Beck and the pass at Greenup Edge. As I got closer could clearly see the waterfall flowing down the mountain wide and white. Began to think about that potential problem for the day after yesterday's stream crossing which looked nowhere near as large as what was now being seen from quite a distance away.
Began to get "cold feet" about the prospect of having to cross that water over and over all morning. Decided to have a change of plans. First, was mentally troubled over the news in the email this morning from Gary. Him and Olivia had to deal with another Flood situation at 1648 Main. Worried about that. Second, the knee had throbbed all night and it was difficult to find a position to keep it happy. Third, that stream, now torrent of water coming down was where 3 weeks ago when crossing on boulders I miss stepped and the right leg crashed into the rock and my cheek hit another boulder and was sore for a week or more. That day the water level was nothing compared to what I saw today. No Way was this hiker climbing up there.
Walk back to town. Investigate options. Waited over an hour for the bus to Keswick to appear. When it arrived it was Packed with people. Had to stand for the half hour ride.
Chatted with a nice elderly man while Bus waiting who was going to Keswick specifically to see the Art Museum, and afterward take a day hike. He has hiked all over these hills. Interesting conversation.
In Keswick learned that besides walking the road to the Borrowdale Valley where Rosthwaite is located, there was the option of covering 4 miles by boat on the Derwentwater. Had a boat ride on the Lakeland Mist. Sat next to a family from India who were doing all the touristy things. There was a beautiful little girl in the family with the largest eyes.
Walked the road for two hours to the Royal Oak hotel. The sun, almost, came out. Took the waterproofs off for the first time in over a week.
My room has no wifi (only available in a certain place elsewhere), no TV (only available in a certain place elsewhere), the bathroom is across the hall (but it is all mine), and there is a sink in my room, so that is a bonus.
As Rosthwaite is out in the middle of a valley surrounded by high mountains there are no stores, pubs or restaurants. Dinner is cooked here. Served at 7:30. And tonight will be Cumberland sausage. Have never had it, so this might or might not be interesting.
Cumberland sausage was okay. Only ate half of the coiled thing, but absolutely all of the carrots and broccoli. Learned that English mustard is HOT. The options were French or English. I tried both expected the English to be bland like everything else here in the way of food. It about blew my sinuses away.
Met a lady in the room where the wifi only works. Christina from Cheyenne, WY doing the C2C with her spouse (partner) and three 20 something children. They were a lively bunch with much chatter between them.
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