White Lion, Patterdale to Beck Allan, Grasmere
8.4 miles in 5 hours. I WALKED!
I feel generally am feeling stronger, except for the knee.
"Life is either a daring adventure or nothing." Helen Keller
At breakfast talked with the 2 women at the next table. British. They decided they would attempt the C2C and do it in record time. Their plan is 9 days of walking (5 less than my plan of 14 days each way). Yesterday they walked from Rosthwaite to Patterdale, which almost always is done in 2 days. High ambitions. But, one of them is having trouble with her knees. Both are painful, swollen, and there is even bruising behind both knees. Me, I think they have over estimated their ability and the strain on the body. Will never know what their final outcome is, but from what I saw this morning, it doesn't look good.
It was a stiff climb up to the pass. Rising on the right was Striding Edge and on the left St Sunday Crag. In 2013 I did the St Sunday Crag route on my return as I felt full of energy (no injuries to baby along) and the sky was perfectly clear. Amazing views. Today had to use the trekking poles as serious brakes due to the heavy winds with unexpected occasional gust of what seemed like tornado blasts.
Climbed past the site of "death of the C2C woman", but it was unrecognizable. Looked like every other part of the trail - Rocky (very rocky), Muddy (very muddy), and water flowing straight down the path (very much lots of water).
Stopped and sheltered behind a side wall at the Ruthwaite Lodge (highest structure on the route, but permanently locked). Ate some chunks of that Cadbury chocolate bar being carried for days on my back.
Keep climbing Up.
Worried all morning while struggling upward about the crossing on the rocks at the bottom of the tarn (lake). Kept thinking about the recent week of heavy rain and wondered if the water level might have risen higher and the rocks submerged.
Great relief as the tarn came into view. There were people crossing the rocks. Lots of people! All coming towards me.
Carefully I worked the trekking poles, feet and knees towards the tarn. The rocks were still above the water level (barely). But there was some serious slow foot placements on this persons part to get the body and pack across. Some leaping was necessary. Really a leap of faith and trust the boot will not slip.
Then time to relax and chat with the lines of hikers coming towards me. The first set of people turned out to be 8 headed towards Robin Hoods Bay, from Ohio. They were excited about everything.
Talked with another man (Oxford) who knew where Wisconsin was, Green Bay Packers and Cheeseheads. I thought he was walking alone. As I was about to start off he said "give some encouragement to Christine". Then a lady's head slowly climbed into view. A very Red lady's face. Walked down to her and asked if she was the person I was to give encouragement to. Made her smile. Keep working way down steep slope.
Probably encountered 45 walkers today. Most memorable would be the couple from the Netherlands. They began the walk at St Bees wearing rain ponchos and shorts. Yesterday in Grasmere each had purchased a full set of waterproofs and seemed very pleased with the money spent.
The descent is always difficult in normal times, but add in a naughty knee and the personal feeling of being vulnerable (just climbed past the site of the trail death - still not identified), made each foot placement important.
Came to the biggest hiking issue of the day. A Major rushing stream (practically a river that had over flowed its banks) coming down with all the accumulated water from the high elevations. Serious consideration of where this person would cross. At the position where the actual path crossed or elsewhere. Lower down the water flow was spread out wider and the large boulders for possible foot placement further apart. Lois climbed higher up close to the bottom of the huge waterfalls. There looked like a potential crossing.
Carefully placed poles in the rushing water. When they were firmly planted stepped forward, through space and let the left foot land on a Dry rock. Now the tricky part. Replant only one of the poles. Time for the naughty right knee to perform. Pull body up, lift right leg, make it stretch and land firmly on the next Dry rock. Breathe! Repeat movements. Firm land! I was still breathing. I was not being swept over the edge in rushing ice cold water. Move forward down hill.
There were probably 8 more stream crossings, but they were minor in comparison to that major first one. Pieces of cake actually.
After crossing the Pass, and getting beyond that first heart stopping stream crossing there was time to look up and examine the view. The clouds had lifted and there were good views down the valley towards Grasmere, and off in the distance to the west, actual clear skies. Ennerdale Water could be seen, and beyond that the Irish Sea, which this walker will reach on Thursday.
Walked in to Grasmere and found tonight's home. Beck Allan Guest House. Ian and Christine welcomed me. Leave boots and trekking poles outside in the cold (poor boots I am sure they would have preferred a warm night with me in my room).
Was served fruit cake in their kitchen as they learned about my walk. They too thought I was "mad". This place is made up of several parts. I am in the guest house room 7. There are also apartments for self-catering and a converted train car. Must be an expensive bit of real estate right in the center of this very touristy town.
Lots of Asian visitors wandering about the small streets eating ice cream (it is chilly and rainy here) and on quests to pay tribute to William Wordsworth (Dove Cottage).
Last night at the White Lion in Patterdale my bedroom was at the end of the hall. Immediately on entering there were 2 steps down to the small area where the bed was. The bathroom (listed as en-suite) in my materials from Brigantes, was down the hall past 3 other bedrooms, down one step, and on the right. Oh, and on the left were the stairs to the ground floor. Don't turn left in the middle of the night and fall down.
Tonight's room is the opposite of last nights. Queen size bed, white duvet, Bath TUB (only the 4th so far). Felt a bit like Royalty soaking.
Can't figure out how to turn on the TV, but that is fine. This might be the night to catch up on the missed TV series from home.
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