Day 27 Walking, June 14
Royal Oak, Rosthwaite to Low Cock Farm, Ennerdale Bridge (which actually is 1.5 miles out of village).
16.2 Miles. 8.5 hours (too many)
"Traveling tends to magnify all human emotions." Peter Hoeg
Lois rode the local bus up to the Honister Slate Mine which eliminated 2.5 miles Up Up Hill. Good thing. It was an Exhausting day not only for the knee, but the entire body. No way to have shortened it. The first 4 hours I felt great. The last 4.5 Not So great.
The Royal Oak was one of the main, almost only, establishments, in the valley. It is a rather old hotel with crooked heavy wooden beams holding up the ceilings. The floors dip and rise often down a short stretch of hallway.
Besides long distance walkers like myself, there are many who come here for day walks in the mountains high above. They come year after year and stay sometimes for a week, or more.
There is Afternoon tea and scones served between 3:30 and 5. Dinner is at 7:30. Last night someone came through banging a loud gong to announce we should move as a group to the dining room where assigned tables were pointed out. Dinner was a 4 course meal.
Lois had earlier requested to only have the "main" as she couldn't possibly eat all that food without feeling sick. First course was soup and the server tried to give me a bowl. It was declined. He said "it is vegetarian". What did that have to do with too much food? Main course was the Cumberland sausage (what if I was a vegetarian?), which if uncoiled would have been about a foot long. Some strange sliced white objects which at first were thought to be scalloped potato but tasted more like apples. Didn't eat that. On the side platter were mashed potatoes, carrots and broccoli. Yum!!! Veggies! Veg, as they say here. Everyone else had the dessert which was some kind of concoction in a tall glass with cream, berries and fluff. On the sideboard, dresser here, were 5 kinds of cheeses, crackers, grapes, and celery. Back in the sitting room were coffee and dark chocolate candy.
Had nothing to do with the coffee, but took a piece of candy on my way outside to use the wifi in a separate room.
When stopping to collect a glass of wine and having it charged to my room the lady says "oh, you are the one who didn't want all the food". If I had eaten all that food I would have been the one wallowing about in the tub.
The people who are staying here for more than one night all have a similar look about them. Not just facially, but there is that also, but how they dress. The elderly men and women look like their clothing, probably their best clothing and used for holidays, has been kept in mothballs for the past 40 years. Things seen on British murder mystery programs. Odd heavy weight skirts that hang down someplace between knees and ankles. Frumpy blouses, yes blouses, not tops or shirts, and weird sweaters or jacket type items. Oh, and Practical shoes. But they were all very sweet and pleasant people and interested in my "crazy and mad" walk.
Picked up a book in the lounge last night as there was nothing to do in the room (no TV, no wifi). "A Lakeland Summer" by Elizabeth Battrick. Simple, but interesting as it covers one summer when the author was 12 years old and came with her family to this area in the early 1930's, and she learned to be a Fell Walker. Her grandfather made everyone go out every day and hike up and down different peaks, some I recognized, most I didn't. Grandfather didn't allow them to carry any water or flask of tea. They brought only sandwiches and sometimes a few hard candies in their pockets (covered with pocket fuzz). Instead of water they ate Apples, which apparently solves the thirst issues.
Grandfather would "assign" them routes, give a few directions, and leave them to find their own way down into a different valley where they would be collected by vehicle.
No wonder people who live locally are so good at hiking, and have been up and down seemingly everywhere. It has been a part of their lifestyle since they could walk. And, the wind and rain don't seem to make a difference, if anything dealing with the elements adds more excitement to the day. What a wimp I feel in comparison being troubled by days that are not warm and sunny.
I ate porridge with brown sugar, tart grapefruit with yogurt, one slice of "brown".
American family from Cheyenne all had the Full English breakfast.
Walked a bit to the bus stop and caught the one and only heading up to the Honister Pass. Got off at the Slate Mine, visited the shop, bought nothing, peered in the windows at the workers cutting and polishing the living Slate, made use of the "facilities". Bought a sandwich for later. Departed and climbed up the old mining tramway.
3 men climbed up and passed me wearing odd things attached to their backpacks. Asked one what he was carrying. A demonstration was made of the wooden object. They were out surveying for BUTTERFLIES and hoped it would be sunny. Kept seeing them ahead for a block of time stopping and scanning the distance with Serious binoculars.
Could clearly see where my Big mistake was made 4 years ago and I ended up unintentionally on Haystack and had to find a way down. Difficult.
This time followed the regular path over to Grey Knotts. Amazing views down towards The Buttermere Water. At one point could see both Buttermere and Ennerdale Water, and the Irish Sea way off in the distance as a Flat bluish space. Lots of photos, sorry I can not share.
This mornings landscape and views were exactly what I came to England of see! Stunning! Why did the last week and a half have to be miserable? Why did the knee have to become miserable?
The views were straight out of the Sound of Music! I could have been Julie Andrews if wearing a dress and apron, and if I could sing. Spectacular!
The descent from Grey Knotts to the Black Sail Youth Hostel was Steep. Fortunately there was no major water flowing downhill over the rocks to make them slippery. Went slowly. Drop bad knee first if possible. If the distant view is needed to be seen - stop walking - then look, or it would be flat on the face tumbling down the mountain. Descent probably took 30 minutes.
Black Sail Hut was a major hub of activity. Mountain bikers and C2C walkers sprawled about the grass eating Energy.
Chewed my sandwich while talking with a couple from Washington. There was some confusion about where they were from. She, said Washington. He, said Utah. Not quite sure what their relationship was, but whatever, it was their business, and they had a stiff climb ahead of them.
At the Black Sail Youth Hostel took the rain jacket off for the first time in the past week and a half.
Long road walk down through the forest (5 miles). Coming down from the high open spaces the smell of the pine trees was so different from smells of the past 4 weeks. The aroma of high elevation mountain woods was strong.
The trudge around the lake (Ennerdale Water) was long, tedious, tiring, difficult. Took the north side as it was not as rocky or the need to scramble as much, but longer. Took 1.75 hours to reach the western edge. Then the trek into town. It was painful.
Stopped at the Fox and Hounds for a snack as I knew there was No Way this person would do the 3 mile round trip back into Ennerdale Bridge to get food later. Exhausted.
Climbed out, up, and down to the Low Cock How farm where Dorethy gave me tea with homemade Shortbread cookies. I have my own room, but the bathroom is not only down the hall and turn right, but down the steps, turn right again, then left through 2 rooms. There are two bedrooms each with 2 beds in on my half of the guest area. On the other half are two more rooms each with 2 beds. In between down on the lower level is a large room called The Bunkhouse. That had beds for 10 people. That means there could possible 18 guests staying here at one time - there are only 2 bathrooms!!!!
Low Cock How is also known as the Bradley's Riding Center. As I came up the road not only was the open area covered with sheep, there were probably 20 horses munching grass and causing the cars to stop and as they wandered about the one lane road. Three horses came walking right up to me, so I scratched the very long noses. The area where the horses were grazing is known as The Common, meaning it is common land for everyone, and every animal to graze.
While chewing the shortbread I asked Dorothy how many horses they have. About 60. She said there were probably about 25 Up where I saw them. Don't know where the rest are munching their lives away. Serious horse people!
